12 replies to this topic

[glowpot]

1995 Mini Cooper

Just replaced front wheel bearing and finishing the job off, everything back on and am tightening the driveshaft retaining bolt. According to the Haynes manual, the torque should be between 255 - 270 Nm (if the drive shaft has a single hole). Trouble is the hole didn't line up with the gap in the nut between that range (255 - 270). I've had to exceed 300Nm before it would line up. Question is, is this too high?

[Dan]

You shouldn't really bother recording the final torque, especailly if it's right at the top of your wrench's range because you might damage the calibration. The spec is to torque and then advance to the next hole, you can't go wrong if you do that. Hopefully you seated it with a flat washer first.

[glowpot]

You shouldn't really bother recording the final torque, especailly if it's right at the top of your wrench's range because you might damage the calibration. The spec is to torque and then advance to the next hole, you can't go wrong if you do that. Hopefully you seated it with a flat washer first.

I went up to 300Nm using the torque wrench (it's limit) then used a breaker-bar to go the extra bit. (There was no flat washer on this, just the tapered washer which locates in to the flange.)

[glowpot]

Cheers for the tip!

[ANON]

you need to take the cone washer out, use a big flat washer, torque it up and then re fit the cone washer and torque it up again.
think martin at mra does big flat washers?

Edited by ANON, 26 June 2011 - 09:41 PM.

[lrostoke]

One thing with the flat washer is why, I do it but only cause it says so.

But what does it do, because once youve done it you have to undo to put the taper washer in ??
The bearing races cant really go any further if you've fitted them till they hit the shoulder, and the taper section will just go loose when undone ???

[bmcecosse]

I have never ever used the 'flat washer' idea - I have no idea where it comes from. Obviously doesn't do any harm - but with reasonable care I can't see why the bearings need this 'special' treatment....... As for the possible over tightening - your method is correct - you won't have done any harm.

[MRA]

It comes from the Rover Workshop manual... also Haynes , Autodata etc....

We do a flat washer simply because finding one the right size for this job is a nightmare, ours is stainless steel so it will always look goo in your tool box

We always use one and have had really good results over the years because of this, my advice is.... if you can find a flat washer large enough etc.. when you use it leave it all together for at least 30 minutes... go have a cup of tea or something, and make sure the cone washer is lightly greased and clean without wear and hold the driveshaft in place whilst yo uare tightening it all up...

[Dan]

One thing with the flat washer is why

All the parts move while torqueing the wheel bearing, because the whole point of torqueing it is to stretch the shaft and so preload the bearing. Even if the races are fully seated in the hub, which is unlikely without a press, as the shaft stretches more of the nose of it is pulled through the inner races and so through the taper washer. As you press on the taper washer is closes up, which is part of the huge strength of this assembly. If it does that before the shaft has reached its final position it grabs the shaft and then nothing can move any further. When this happens the bearing can never be properly preloaded nomatter how much torque you apply. This happens very easily and we frequently have members comlaining about it. The taper washer also cuts a small groove into the CV nose wich it then likes to return to every time you try to re-tighten the joint. It takes less effort to close up the taper washer and pinch the joint than it does to seat all the parts tightly and preload the bearing, so the washer tends to want to close up first if everything is not exactly in position. When you use the flat washer and replace with the taper, the shaft should have already moved to its final position and returned to slack and everything else should be properly seated so there will be no reason it should not get to the right position again easily.

[TORZIEnJIM]

Hmmm, maybe this is why my bearing seems to be clicking again...? Can't get hold of a suitable washer...anyone got anything of use?

[Ethel]

http://www.minispare...id=42881&title=

[TORZIEnJIM]

B e a utiful!

[tiger99]

Clicking is far more likely to be the CV than the bearing.