19 replies to this topic

[charm_muppet]

Hi there, I have just put a 1275 engine into my 1980 clubman estate. Befor I put the engine in I stripped it down and changed all seasl and gaskets. The pistons had very little side to side movement and the bores looked clean so i decided not to change rings.

I replaced the valve stem seals and lapped the valves.

Took the car out for a run last night (first since engine has been in) and it was moking under load (white/blue) The engine had been standing for a long time before I got it so this is probably the first time it's been run in a few years.

Could the smoke be due to thin oil 10w/40 semi synthetic seeping past rings/seals? Could it be ill adjusted timing/carb and overfuelling?

Before I pull the engine out to replace rings I was hoping for some other opinions.

Plan was to change oil to 20w/50 and get the car rolling roaded to rule out ignition/fueling.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Matt

[mini 4o]

hi matt
did you clean the carbon ring from the top of the cylinder bore? if so just run it for a few miles to build up a seal, you could doo a compression and leak test.to see the condition of the engine

i would certainly change back to 20/50 with a new oil filter , semi synthetic sound like beauty treatment

john

[charm_muppet]

There wasn't a carbon ring at the top of the bores that i could see. I am hoping that it just needs to run itself in after not running for a while. Will get some 20w/50 in asap, i used the thinner semi synthetic as thats what i had at the time, forgot to pick up the 20w/50 from halfords before i pulled the engine.

Thanks

Matt

[charm_muppet]

anymore ideas?

[R1minimagic]

When you looked at the bores, could you still see the honing marks?

[charm_muppet]

not that i remember, no.

[R1minimagic]

If the honing marks are all polished off then it is likely to burn more oil...best to get it re-honed if you are gonna rebuild it.

[charm_muppet]

i hoped it didnt need rings and honing so built everything else around it...worth putting 20w/50 mineral oil and 'stop smoke' additive for the time being? Currently running 10w/40 semi synthetic (its what i had when building, engine was out before i realised i hadnt got 20w/50)

Matt

[L400RAS]

...worth putting 20w/50 mineral oil and 'stop smoke' additive for the time being?

Yes to the oil, hell no to the additive

[charm_muppet]

what does the additive do that is so bad?

[bruders 338]

is 20w/50 oil ment for all mini's as i'm having the same problem with mine and i'm using 10w/40

[L400RAS]

is 20w/50 oil ment for all mini's as i'm having the same problem with mine and i'm using 10w/40

10/40 is good for autos, but 20/50 is good for manuals. Some use 10/40, but for "tired" engines like the OP, 20/50 could potentially reduce oil consumption rates. Note i said reduce the rate - it will not "fix" the problem (unforunately).

Edited by L400RAS, 06 July 2011 - 12:19 PM.

[Cooperman]

20w50 mineral oil is needed by the gearbox as well as the engine.

[bruders 338]

20w50 mineral oil is needed by the gearbox as well as the engine.

I best change the oil once more then

[charm_muppet]

To add inslult to injury I took the timing cover off last night as the gasket was dripping oil. Replaced with a brand new cover, oil seal and genuine gasket...did an engine flush (hoping to unstick the rings) and changed oil and filter (20w/50) started her up and the bottom pulley oil seal is now leaking!!! argh!!!

Car is still smoking under load (