5 replies to this topic

[bigcaddy]

1980 Leyland Mini
998CC Stock

I'm in the USA and we don't have much in the MINI department to pick and choose from. I have found an Austin American engine and tranny. I currently have a warn out 998 that runs great but burns a lot of oil.

I'm thinking of just picking up the 1300 and using that after a rebuild. More power would be nice for sure.

Looking for advice here:
Should I rebuild the 998 and bore it out, shave the head and do some performance mods? (Keeping it all original is nice at least visually since there are very few here)
Pick up the 1300 and drop it on my existing tranny?

My other concern is the gearing. Either way I would need to swap out the final drive gears to allow for better cruising on our roads. Can you suggest a good final drive ratio for a built up 998 and a semi stock 1300?

I have switched to the factory 12" cooper wheels from the 10" already.

Thank you.

[bmcecosse]

The AA 1300 will be fine - use it! Final drive ratio - we need to know what ratios you have in each box at the moment - and what use you want from the car. ie Highway cruiser, or Sprint/Race car!

[dklawson]

As above, the AA engine will be fine. I know the front engine plate is different but you should be able to leave it in place and simply add the Mini engine mounts.

What may be different is the rear mount for the AA gearbox. The AA should have a remote shift box. A 1980 Mini floorpan will have been designed for the rod-change gearbox. I'm not sure what is involved in making the remote shift fit the tunnel of a rod-change car.

You will find some info on the AA and its engine at Todd Miller's web site:
http://members.tripo...rica/index.html

With the change in tires, and final drives, there is no simple answer for what speedometer will be correct for your Mini. While you could consider changing the drive gears in the transmission to get a match, another possibility is to get a ratio box built for your car. The ratio box will convert the output from the gearbox to the input your speedo needs. They are available from most speedometer repair shops. If you want support from a Smiths gauge vendor, consider APT (gaugeguys.com), Nisonger, or Palo Alto Speedometer. All have web sites and all can provide the ratio boxes. APT says their current price for a ratio box is $125 for straight, $150 for a right-angle box.

[bigcaddy]

Ok, so it seems the smart move would be to go to the 1300.

I'm not sure of the gearing. the 998 is a stock box. It is very buzzy at high speeds. I want a setup so that I can drive on the highway sometimes. It's not for race.


I'm not very concerned about the speedometer calibration. It is registered as an antique so there is no inspection or registration.

[Spitz]

What factpry 12" "Cooper" wheels?...didn't think there was such a thing.

I'd go for the 1275 . It is a standard is it?...I ask as most AAs are auto's

I have a 1275 AA in one of mine.....it sits on a rod change box in my car with a 3.44. At 100 kph I'm at near 4000rpm ( 10" )

Your car most likely has a 3.44 FD in it. That would put you at about 3800rpm I think in 12" @ 100kph

Finding a 3.1 FD would bring this down some. I have a 3.1 in a 998 and an 1130. The 998 does have some issues with hills.

[bigcaddy]

Ok. well I thought these wheels were factory 12" wheels. I dont know. they fit and they look good on it.

I'll climb under the car and take a picture of the back of the 4 speeds linkage.

Would you suggest just dropping the 1300 onto my existing 4 speed and changing out the final drive? I'm ok with that. It would save me $200.00.