9 replies to this topic

[Brams96]

Having never wired a trailer towbar socket/plug into a car before I just wanted to get a second opinion of what I want to do.

1/ I take it I just splice into the existing lights circuits etc with the new cable to the socket for the car end and the trailer end will be the same process?
2/ For those who have tow sockets already installed I would like to know if having extra indicators affects the flash rate of the flasher unit & do I need to upgrade it?
3/ Lastly I will be putting a fridge, 12v lighter socket for phone chargers etc & some extra lights in to run from a leisure battery so does the circuit below look correct?

Cheers

Edited by Brams96, 24 July 2011 - 07:42 AM.

[minimadjonesy]

I had mine wire directly into the wiring loom but the extra bulbs made it very difficult to get a decent brightness on the trailer lights.

I have now however fitted one of these, it take power directly from the battery to power the trailer so nice bright lights and then you wire this inbetween the towbar and the wiring loom. it then just uses the loom to activate relays and passes the signal to the trailer. Lot's of bright bulbs in the trailer and no extra load on the mini's wiring loom which also reduces the risk of fire due to overloading the loom

towbar relay

[Guess-Works.com]

I believe that if you're going to run a second battery which will be charged from the mini's alternator then you will need to put in a split charge system...

Look on 4x4 sites for these ( popular in the winching world )

As for the main trailer lighting, the indicator flasher will need to be changed from the 2x21w+5 to a trailer capable version, but what I suggest is installing an electronic version rather than the older mechanical variety.

[Brams96]

Thanks for the replies.

I was planning on using THIS RELAY which is for the split charge system but sold seperately. Instead of using 2 x 7pin plugs I am using the newer single euro-plug which is 13pin and has 2 x 2.5mm switched 12V wires which I will use both for the battery charging (giving 30A total).

I was going to use THIS REGULATOR for the trailers auxilliary charging system which is rated at 10A so will be more than enough.

I haven't decided on the solar panel yet but the size of fridge I use should dictate that, most seem to be 25-40W range.

[Guess-Works.com]

I would use the two 7 pin sockets, the proposal is that the 13 pin Euro socket will become part of the MOT test in 2012, so if fitted will be tested, not only for function, but also wiring condition, security etc etc...

[pbrain]

definitely need to go through a relay bank/pack for trailer. The factory loom is only designed for the standard lighting. Many cars have caught fire due to 'patched' in spot lights from existing loom. You can get the multi-relay as linked previously or use 5-6 relays on a common power rail.

...also when considering solar panels, you want at least 2-3 times the wattage of the fridge. Assume 8-12 hours daylight and if the fridge is to be on for 24 hours then the solar panel will need to run the fridge & charge the battery for night time use.

[minilester]

definitely need to go through a relay bank/pack for trailer. The factory loom is only designed for the standard lighting. Many cars have caught fire due to 'patched' in spot lights from existing loom. You can get the multi-relay as linked previously or use 5-6 relays on a common power rail.

...also when considering solar panels, you want at least 2-3 times the wattage of the fridge. Assume 8-12 hours daylight and if the fridge is to be on for 24 hours then the solar panel will need to run the fridge & charge the battery for night time use.

and just to be sure.. i'd have 2 batteries in the trailor, if you can. just wen you plan to take it out (the trailor) charge the batteries over night and let the solar/splite charge system just top it up as your driving along/parked up.

just my 2p..

.. maybe even a wind turbine for wen parked up?

is this for camping or do you intend to go to mini shows with a big fridge to sell cans of drinks to the punters?

[Brams96]

is this for camping or do you intend to go to mini shows with a big fridge to sell cans of drinks to the punters?

Ha ha, I hadn't thought of that! No it will just be for camping and taking to & using at mini shows and only to putdrinks & food in it for myself.

pbrain - The relay I linked to before is the same as sold in the split charge wiring kits so it should be ok for my intentions. As for the solar panels, if I get a panel of 2 times the fridge rating then I would be looking at one 1m x 0.5m & cost about £230! A bit too big & too expensive I think. I might look at a mini wind turbine instead/aswell then it can charge day & night.

GuessWorks - I've already bought the plug & socket and the 5m of wiring I need so unfortunately that will have to do me. It will all be properly installed with heatshrink (where needed) & fused so if it is tested it shouldn't be a problem. Cheers though.

[pbrain]

that's the current problem with solar panels...they're cack!

Probably better off as suggested by using a couple of batteries in parallel and have them pre-charged with a mains charger and use the +12v on the trailer socket.

I am presuming you're using one of them mini (peltier) 12v fridges?

[Brams96]

Yes I will probably use a Peltier type fridge, but if I could find a 3-way fridge that isn't too big that runs with gas as well I would get that as my trailer has a 2 burner gas hob so I will already have the gas bottle with me. The 3-way cooler/fridges all seem a little bit big & pricey for me at the moment. but I am always on the look out for a bargin