13 replies to this topic

[Twisty]

Hi peeps i have a 92 sprite and have been working on the front suspension and mounts and have encountered a problem with the front shock absorber lower mount.

The problem is its seized in place, i have managed to undo the nut that secures the damper to the bolt (this was badly threaded) and then proceeded to try and knock out the bolt but with no luck, so i tried to undo the bolt from the other end of the mounting bolt and the head sheared off.

Do you guys have any ideas on what i can try next? I have tried lots of heat and this did nothing i have tried to repeatedly hit the bolt with a hammer and no movement.

One thing i should mention is that i have noticed that the spacer on the mounting bolt is also seized on, and cant get this to budge either.

Please help im stuck with what to try next.

Edited by Twisty, 01 August 2011 - 05:54 PM.

[Twisty]

please help me

I am right in thinking that the bottom shock bolt should just knock through, aren't I?

I have now just thought about putting a clamp on the bolt and try to press the thing out. if not it looks as if i will need a new suspension arm.

If i have to replace the arm will i have to also get a cone compressor and remove the rubber cones or can i just undo the bottom arm and replace with a new item?

Thanks

Twisty

Edited by Twisty, 01 August 2011 - 08:12 PM.

[Tupers]

I would heat the arm up with a blow torch and then smack the bolt though from the back with a large pin punch.

[Twisty]

I have already tried the blow torch method and bashed the hell out of it and it still wont budge, is it a case of just heat it smack it over and over again?

I left the torch on it for a good few minutes without joy, however i have freed up the spacer and that is now off.

Thanks for the reply

Edited by Twisty, 01 August 2011 - 08:17 PM.

[bmcecosse]

It used to be a stud with the spacer built in....but later economies meant a long bolt with a loose spacer. If it won't respond to heat - then you will have to try drilling it out! Start with a small drill bit - and keep it in the centre! I've been in trubble on here before for saying I used a long Allen Head bolt for these - but it worked well enough for me......

Edited by bmcecosse, 01 August 2011 - 08:39 PM.

[Twisty]

what type of drill bit (brand) do you recommend as that bolt is going to be tough and would just chew up a standard metal bit would'nt it?

Edited by Twisty, 01 August 2011 - 08:57 PM.

[100ev8]

heat , wire brush , freeing oil , heat , wire brush , freeing oil , heat ......... keep working it a bit at a time

[bmcecosse]

Just a good sharp drill bit, obviously not a chocolate one from Lidl..... - file the broken end flat and centre dab it - and keep the drill revs down!

[Twisty]

sorry for my ignorance but what do you mean by dab it?

Many thanks to all that have offered words of advice, i have knocked it on the head for tonight but will update you tomorrow.

Thanks all

Twisty

[bmcecosse]

Centre PUNCH it then - using a sharp/hard piece of steel (a centre punch is ideal ...) you need to strike it hard exactly in the centre to make a little indent for the drill bit to start in - otherwise it will slide all over the place....

[sonikk4]

I think what he means is to centre punch the end then that way the drill bit will not slip off. (also known as centre popping)

Regarding the drill bit i would recommend using a Cobalt drill bit at slow speed with lubricant. You can use GT85 or WD40 for the lubricant. The drill bits you can get off Ebay. What size you need i couldn't say off the top of my head. Please use protective glasses with these drill bits as if you over heat them they can break with a bang.

[Twisty]

update time.

After hours and hours of cursing and heating and whacking the bottom shock pin finally gave up and I won.

New dampers now fitted and its just as well as the drivers side damper was completely screwed.

Thanks again for your help it has been much appreciated.

[bmcecosse]

Great success! Check the new damper mounts are snug once the car has done a run round the block. And make sure the bump stops are present and correct..........

[Twisty]

all present and correct sir, Thanks again for your help.

Twisty