
Under Sil Vents
#1
Posted 10 August 2011 - 05:44 PM
cheers
#2
Posted 10 August 2011 - 08:15 PM
To be brutally honest here i really consider removing them or at the very least drill a small hole and i do mean a small hole through the outer sill to the side of the jacking point to see if there are two sills present.
If there is then there will be a very good chance that the oversills will be covering rusty original sills so causing more damage. Time to replace them and fit proper short sills.
Not only will this cure the moisture problem but they are also stronger.
Now if there is only the oversill fitted then you could drill holes right at the bottom but again the question needs to be asked is there any rust on the inner sill. You cannot always see this from inside the car but on the outside its a different story.
If you have a look at the Project Paddy link below you will see where i have removed the first oversill fitted to Paddy. Luckily the old sills were removed but there was no treatment at all on the inner sill so rust was there but not too bad.
#3
Posted 11 August 2011 - 07:09 AM
So to put vents / holes in them where are the best positions ? how many holes ? how small hole are we talking ?
thanks for your help
going to look at paddy now
j
Update , just looked at your post thread , your primed and black sil has 3 holes in it ,and some side vents ! mine has these vents but look like there sealed can these be opened on mine ?
Edited by jayjay31, 11 August 2011 - 07:58 AM.
#4
Posted 11 August 2011 - 09:54 AM
#5
Posted 11 August 2011 - 06:10 PM
Hi thanks for the honest reply ! luckly when i purchased the car i also got the photo album of the rebuild , and loooking at a few photos it shows the rusty ( rotten ) sils and them removed and the new ones put on ! i dont know why they wouldnt have gone for the vented sils!
So to put vents / holes in them where are the best positions ? how many holes ? how small hole are we talking ?
thanks for your help
going to look at paddy now
j
Update , just looked at your post thread , your primed and black sil has 3 holes in it ,and some side vents ! mine has these vents but look like there sealed can these be opened on mine ?
You could open the bottom of the vent area but unfortunately oversill don't work that way. The rest of the sill will still be lower than the vents so moisture WILL build up in these areas.
To be brutally honest here and its not what you want to hear these need to be removed and proper short sill fitted. This way everything will be the way it should be.
The three holes you see in the panel are the ones at each end are slinging points and the other one is the jacking point
#6
Posted 11 August 2011 - 06:36 PM
Hi thanks for the honest reply ! luckly when i purchased the car i also got the photo album of the rebuild , and loooking at a few photos it shows the rusty ( rotten ) sils and them removed and the new ones put on ! i dont know why they wouldnt have gone for the vented sils!
So to put vents / holes in them where are the best positions ? how many holes ? how small hole are we talking ?
thanks for your help
going to look at paddy now
j
Update , just looked at your post thread , your primed and black sil has 3 holes in it ,and some side vents ! mine has these vents but look like there sealed can these be opened on mine ?
You could open the bottom of the vent area but unfortunately oversill don't work that way. The rest of the sill will still be lower than the vents so moisture WILL build up in these areas.
To be brutally honest here and its not what you want to hear these need to be removed and proper short sill fitted. This way everything will be the way it should be.
The three holes you see in the panel are the ones at each end are slinging points and the other one is the jacking point
Actually, they could be modded into short sills by carefully slicing with a 1mm cutting disk up the length of them at the width the normal sills would be then rewelded in the remaining area.The vents would be a bit bigger then normal, but if they had been correctly fitted along the body seam and there is no rust in there yet no reason to throw all the work away.
Chris
#7
Posted 12 August 2011 - 08:41 AM
Could i not slice into the vent mould making a vent hole rather than cut the all the way around ? would that work ?
cheers
jay
#8
Posted 12 August 2011 - 05:33 PM
#9
Posted 12 August 2011 - 07:37 PM
Sorry to hijack this thread but seems pointless starting a new one. I think i Have made the mistake of buying oversills. They cannot be retiurned aas i have already welded up the jacking holes. Can these be cut down the length and vents fabricated in? also what is the best way to stop the inside of the sills rusting. I have waxoil which i will be using, but at the minute it is at a stage of bare metal, What is the best paint to use? Something like hammerite?
If they are classic oversills they have bumps along the length corrisponding to the vents on normal sills, they become the vents when you trim them to the correct width.
Chris
#10
Posted 13 August 2011 - 08:22 AM
I drove down to mini technique near to where i live its a mini specialist , he said he use to fit these years ago and just drill small holes in them ! but im still unsure if i should do this or slice the sil on the slant where the mould comes out where the vent should be ?
if i did just drill a small straight hole up would this course wet & muck to go in ?
jay
#11
Posted 13 August 2011 - 11:03 PM
Cut a nice neat line along the sill. I normally use a long straight edge and line it up on the edge of the 'raised bumps' and cut along this line.
This results in a sill that looks like the more expensive 'narrow sills'.
IF the sills are already elded on, then you can carefully cut the vents with an angle grinder to open the ends.
As for the Waxoil. Then once you have cut the vents, you can stuff the 'magic wand' up the vent hole.
HOWEVER, its normally best to jack the car up.
Remove the front wheels.
Drill a small hole in the inner wheel arch into the sill cavity. Remember to put some paint or something on the bare metal, where you have drilled.
Shove the 'magic wand' in and keep going until it reaches the other end.
Start spraying and pull the 'magic wand' slowly out of the sill.
Use a good rubber grommet to fill the hole.
I normally use a small dob of seam sill with the rubber bung, to keep it water tight.
Repeat on the other side.
You should be able to get it past the jacking point (if you have one), might take a couple of goes though!
If not just do it this way and then copy the technique from the rear wheel arch of the car.
Oh and be warned! The waxoil will pee out the vent holes!
#12
Posted 14 August 2011 - 08:24 PM
Will have some nice metal left for other patches too

Before welding the sill though what would be the best paint to prep the metal with before the waxoiling? I managed to pick up a waxoil kit cheap from a show which should do me well for the whole car.
#13
Posted 15 August 2011 - 12:10 PM
regards
jay
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