14 replies to this topic

[Hooky]

It's a hif38 on a 1275, no idea what needle is in it, it's "stage1 tuned" so exhaust and k and n filter (this whistles quite a bit more than expected is that normal?). I've also got an electric fuel pump..

I've been trying to set up my carb, I do intend to get it rolling road-ed but it's got no MOT, it isn't going too well.

I can get it to idle, and drive. But starting and the choke are an issue.. When starting it takes a bit long on the starter motor to start (it turns well and lots of charge and starting amps), but when warm and well primed it will start normally. The car will only start without choke.
When using the choke it kills the engine. If it is pulled just a few millimetres then the revs pick up a bit but when pulled any further the car splutters and dies within about 2-3 seconds pushing it back in will save it though...

It's stopped producing black smoke and there isn't any soot coming from the exhaust now, plugs are all right, they were completely black after playing around with the carb trying to get it right (They are new plugs) and have now been cleaned a little (haven't started it since). Dashpot is oiled.

Edited by Hooky, 11 August 2011 - 07:57 PM.

[minimender]

Could be running rich
lean it off and see if the revs rise or fall
they should rise if going in the right direction
could be too rich needle, is it thin and tapered or thick and not tapered.
thick is lean economy needle and thin is rich needle

starting point anyway, see how it goes

have a check that the dashpot piston is seating propperly as well.

[MrBounce]

What he said ^^^

Your "whistle" sounds very much like an inlet manifold leak somewhere. Your gasket might not be seated properly or there could even be a hole in your manifold. Check everything's tightened up properly. Did you use a new gasket when fitting your stage one kit? If not, you should.

[lolipop]

Wouldn't a Stg 1 normally use an AAA needle. Is this what you have? Agreed that it sounds too rich.

[minimender]

I once changed a carb to manifold gasket and it had slipped when fitting part blocking the inlet off.

took me a while to figure it out....doooh

does sound like a leak somewhere in the inlet though

[Hooky]

I didn't buy it as a kit, I'm reusing my exhaust from an spi with a hif38 carb, so the needle has not been changed and do not know if it has been changed in it's life. It's not from the engine I've put in or from the one that was there in the first place. Doesn't matter how I have it leaner or richer the choke still kills it.. I'll try winding back the adjuster screw even further in.. How far should the choke be moving the accelerator cam (I think that's what it's called?).

There's no holes in my LCB, I put it on there and I cleaned and painted it before it went on so it was well checked before use. The gaskets are all new on it, but I suppose I may have gone through the wall of one whilst inserting one of the bolts although I constructed the lot on a work bench and then installed into the car.. It's not audible from the car, it's just surprised me having only had air boxes in the past. I'd actually prefer an air box but there wasn't one with the car when I bought it..

I am honestly not sure where my car should idle at, I'm trying to it by ear but it's very difficult. For a HIF I am led to believe from previous posts the idle screw should be screwed in and then out two full turns as a starting point. My engine runs very fast at this though, and runs slower but consistently regular a couple more turns out (out being anti-clockwise).

Most needles look the same to me. I'm not sure of visual differences. I do have a spare new BEJ and ADH needle though that were given to me with a load of spares at one time..

I think I'm going to have to check all my gaskets again. Before tinkering with idle screws and the choke again, seems like the best place to start. Thanks for the replies, always a useful source of information this forum.

[minimender]

Screw the mixture screw in to richen and out to lean off.

If it runs faster when you turn it then you are getting a better setting, keep turning till the tickover is at its fastest.

Then adjust the throttle stop to slow the engine down.

ADH was used in the 850 Mini

BEJ is a better bet as it was used in 1300 Auto Metro as a rich needle

[Hooky]

My needle is an AAC, should I try using the BEJ one?

[Hooky]

I've come to the conclusion AAC is the better one for my car as it won't run at all on the other one, also tried the other one just because i could and also an ADP as well.

This will sound dumb as I've been trying to set this for a while, but what do you mean by the "throttle stop" minimender?

[bobs]

My needle is an AAC, should I try using the BEJ one?

Don't think the B** needles fit the HIF38's?

[Hooky]

Precisely what I found


I tried it because I've got a second hif38 that has a BEJ in though... but i've also got a 44 with one in also, a hs4 with an AAC and another with a ADP..

Edited by Hooky, 12 August 2011 - 10:52 AM.

[Hooky]

Just filled my interior with smoke, not sure what it is burning inside could be where I've painted it.. but exhaust tunnel is seriously hot, water boils off of it.. It's all right on the bits covered in the floor insulation bitumen type stuff, but the bare bits are scolding.. I managed to have this set up all right until I started fiddling with needles, even though I'm back to the original one I cannot get it to idle regularly, it's revving far too high as if underload.. Could my trying to fit a B** type needle have damaged it?

Edit: Was just wondering about my fuel line.. I've had it in the top left hose and the overflow on the bottom hose on the carb, I've just swapped these to check if they work that way (couldn't find a definitive answer on here and my haynes has no information on a hif38 only a 44 and then doesn't say which pipes are which anyway...). Basically, it started and ran and I can rev it (depending on where the mixture screw and throttle screw are) only thing it develops at certain stages is a backfire, depending on where the screws are set from exhaust or the carb, which scared the hell out of me when it did it. I can't get it set right this way either, it still revs too high at idle.

Anyone know for definite which way it's supposed to be? It's a 3 pipe HIF38 similar to a 44 but I've read that the two pipes are different between the two? But only one persons opinion..

Edited by Hooky, 12 August 2011 - 12:26 PM.

[minimender]

This will sound dumb as I've been trying to set this for a while, but what do you mean by the "throttle stop" minimender?

AAC needles are as fitted to MG Midgets with twin HS2 carbs

ADP for 998 Metro so HIF 38

Throttle stop is the screw that adjusts the idle speed on the carb

P.S. If the exhaust is getting that hot the timing is retarded !!!



.

Edited by minimender, 12 August 2011 - 03:07 PM.

[Hooky]

I think the whole lots retarded right now, I may just give up and send it to a garage...............

Thank you for the feedback it's very appreciated. I shall try and check the timing tomorrow after work.

[minimender]

I think the whole lots retarded right now, I may just give up and send it to a garage...............

Thank you for the feedback it's very appreciated. I shall try and check the timing tomorrow after work.

You can rough set the timing very easy.

Turn the dizzy either way untill the engine runs at its fastest.

On the road check that it doesn't pink under load at low revs (or high revs)

If it does turn the dizzy slightly anticlockwise and try it again

Do this until it stops pinking.

Then set the tickover

That'll be set then ......and you will know its ok and will have saved some dosh as garages dont always get it right