My 81 Austin Morris Is nearly ready for its first MOT since 1998.. but the front wheels are way out and need tracking.. and the catch is, i have eff all money left!
So is there any way i can do this myself?
Im not expecting it to be perfect, i just expect it not to destroy my new set of tyres in 4 miles!
So any way?
Help would be ace!
Cheers!
Front Wheel Tracking
Started by
kingbenvolio
, Aug 12 2011 11:03 AM
self tracking tracking front wheel
9 replies to this topic
#1
kingbenvolio
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Posted 12 August 2011 - 11:03 AM
#2
minimender
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Posted 12 August 2011 - 02:41 PM
Very difficult.
You can use my drive over trakin thingy..where are you ?
You can use my drive over trakin thingy..where are you ?
#3
crazycoleman118
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One Carb Or Two?
Posted 12 August 2011 - 04:45 PM
yes you can try doing it with string and axle stands etc to get it straight. and it should be close. but tracking at any garage isnt expensive just beg/borrow the money for it. cheaper than a pair of front tyres
#4
kingbenvolio
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Posted 12 August 2011 - 05:41 PM
Cheers for the advice guys, think I might have to rob a bank!
I'm based in tamworth, Staffordshire
I'm based in tamworth, Staffordshire
#5
mini13
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Up Into Fourth
Posted 12 August 2011 - 06:30 PM
It can be done DIY style, I'm way to tight to pay for mine to be done and Ive tracked it several times, the current tyres have been on there several years, thats tens of thousands of miles.
as a quick get it usable you need two bits of straight wood or metal box/ angle, push one bit against the front wheels as if you were going to run over it and mark it where the outside of the tyre/ wheel is so you get a bit of stick thing with the front track width marked on it, move the marked peice of wood/ metal to the rear of the car and push it against the wheels in the same waypositioning it soyou can see the marks from the front of the car, straight away you'll see that the rear track is narrower than the front track, even up the distance between the marks each side,
next use the other straight bit of material to "sight up" against the line by pressing it against the wheel about half way up, adjust so the marks line up with the sight (or the sight is slightly toward the car by less than 5mm)
keep checking the steering wheel is straight as adjusting can pull it off centre, use the steering lock if possible. Also roll the car back and forward a few feet to settle it and double check the adjustments.
once youve got the marks its actually really quick to do, and pretty acurate, not as good as a proper setup, but easily good enough to drive on.
also it can be applied the otherway round to the rear of the car if you have adjustable toe brackets.
as a quick get it usable you need two bits of straight wood or metal box/ angle, push one bit against the front wheels as if you were going to run over it and mark it where the outside of the tyre/ wheel is so you get a bit of stick thing with the front track width marked on it, move the marked peice of wood/ metal to the rear of the car and push it against the wheels in the same waypositioning it soyou can see the marks from the front of the car, straight away you'll see that the rear track is narrower than the front track, even up the distance between the marks each side,
next use the other straight bit of material to "sight up" against the line by pressing it against the wheel about half way up, adjust so the marks line up with the sight (or the sight is slightly toward the car by less than 5mm)
keep checking the steering wheel is straight as adjusting can pull it off centre, use the steering lock if possible. Also roll the car back and forward a few feet to settle it and double check the adjustments.
once youve got the marks its actually really quick to do, and pretty acurate, not as good as a proper setup, but easily good enough to drive on.
also it can be applied the otherway round to the rear of the car if you have adjustable toe brackets.
#6
kingbenvolio
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Posted 12 August 2011 - 08:05 PM
It can be done DIY style, I'm way to tight to pay for mine to be done and Ive tracked it several times, the current tyres have been on there several years, thats tens of thousands of miles.
as a quick get it usable you need two bits of straight wood or metal box/ angle, push one bit against the front wheels as if you were going to run over it and mark it where the outside of the tyre/ wheel is so you get a bit of stick thing with the front track width marked on it, move the marked peice of wood/ metal to the rear of the car and push it against the wheels in the same waypositioning it soyou can see the marks from the front of the car, straight away you'll see that the rear track is narrower than the front track, even up the distance between the marks each side,
next use the other straight bit of material to "sight up" against the line by pressing it against the wheel about half way up, adjust so the marks line up with the sight (or the sight is slightly toward the car by less than 5mm)
keep checking the steering wheel is straight as adjusting can pull it off centre, use the steering lock if possible. Also roll the car back and forward a few feet to settle it and double check the adjustments.
once youve got the marks its actually really quick to do, and pretty acurate, not as good as a proper setup, but easily good enough to drive on.
also it can be applied the otherway round to the rear of the car if you have adjustable toe brackets.
I could kiss your face, but i wont..
I'll give it a try! Cheers!
#7
Cooperman
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Posted 12 August 2011 - 09:37 PM
I did one this week with 2 pieces of 2" x "2 timber each 6ft long.
I uset two milk crates and 2 axle stands.
Place a length of timber against each wheel on the milk crate with as much as possible sticking out in front.
Set the wood so that the distance to the edges of the wheel rim are identical - the wood does not need to touch the tyre. now measure 20" in front of the wheel centre forward on each side and then another 12" (if you have 12" wheels).
Measure the distance across the gap between the pieces of timber inside face at the 20" and 32" marks. The difference in those 2 dimensions should be between 1 mm and 2 mm greater at the furthest measurement from the car to give the necessary toe-out.
I promise that if done properly it is very accurate.
To adjust the track, loosen the track rod end lock nut and wind the track rod in the desired direction, in or out. Don't forget to tighten the lock nut and then remove the steering wheel and re-fit it in the straight-ahead position after you drive the car in a straight line.
I uset two milk crates and 2 axle stands.
Place a length of timber against each wheel on the milk crate with as much as possible sticking out in front.
Set the wood so that the distance to the edges of the wheel rim are identical - the wood does not need to touch the tyre. now measure 20" in front of the wheel centre forward on each side and then another 12" (if you have 12" wheels).
Measure the distance across the gap between the pieces of timber inside face at the 20" and 32" marks. The difference in those 2 dimensions should be between 1 mm and 2 mm greater at the furthest measurement from the car to give the necessary toe-out.
I promise that if done properly it is very accurate.
To adjust the track, loosen the track rod end lock nut and wind the track rod in the desired direction, in or out. Don't forget to tighten the lock nut and then remove the steering wheel and re-fit it in the straight-ahead position after you drive the car in a straight line.
#8
bmcecosse
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Posted 12 August 2011 - 10:30 PM
Basically I do mine as the lads above have described - my gauge is a very simple dexion bar with right angle arms. Used with a steel rule to measure the gap between arm and tyre side wall. It gives the same reading 3 times in a row - it works. Important to make sure the two track rod ends are screwed equally on to the track rods. Then do the same test at the rear to check the rear wheel tracking - it affects the car's handling more than anything else...........
#9
kingbenvolio
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Posted 12 August 2011 - 10:33 PM
Cheers for the kind advice all!
It sounds fairly simple! Too simple perhaps..
But I'll give it a shot if the weathers good tomorrow! (restoring on my mothers front lawn..)
And will let you know how i get on! At least i cant make it any worse!
Thanks again!
Benv
It sounds fairly simple! Too simple perhaps..
But I'll give it a shot if the weathers good tomorrow! (restoring on my mothers front lawn..)
And will let you know how i get on! At least i cant make it any worse!
Thanks again!
Benv
#10
1984mini25
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Posted 12 August 2011 - 10:59 PM
Mine is even simpler using just 2 pairs of mole grips, and some string.
After parking the mini on firm level ground, steering set and suspension settled. I then clamp one end of the piece of string to one of the front tie bars; string it round the mini through the centres of the 4 wheels and then secured tightly with the second pair of mole grips to the other tie bar.
Then is just a simple case of measuring off the two points the string is closest to on each wheel and comparing all 4.
After parking the mini on firm level ground, steering set and suspension settled. I then clamp one end of the piece of string to one of the front tie bars; string it round the mini through the centres of the 4 wheels and then secured tightly with the second pair of mole grips to the other tie bar.
Then is just a simple case of measuring off the two points the string is closest to on each wheel and comparing all 4.
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