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Clutch Squeak When Depressed And Other Niggles


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#1 jakejakejake1

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Posted 24 August 2011 - 11:33 PM

Well the car has been running quite well, just a few annoying little things!

The first is that the clutch squeaks while depressed, it doesnt happen all the time, but does happen whether the car is stationary or not. Any ideas as to what this could be? Maybe a warning of something worse, or just something to live with?

Secondly, my car seems to be running too lean, tried having a look with Gunson's Colour Tune and it indicates the car is running lean. It is a 998 fitted with a stage one kit from minispares with an AAU (i think) needle. I'm assuming the best bet for this would be a rolling road tune? But what does a rolling road tune ACTUALLY consist of? A detailed answer would be appreciated, not just 'the carb gets tuned' :)

Thirdly my car seems to have a lot on engine noise, I noticed there is no sound deadening or anything under the carpets in the front half of the car, maybe this is why? Also there is a large vent hole on the drivers side wheel well, above the pedals, am I correct in thinking there is supposed to be a pipe here that connects to the heater?

Thanks in advance,

Jake

#2 jaydee

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Posted 25 August 2011 - 09:54 AM

About the clutch squeak, probably the clutch release plunger is dry and dirt. i'd try cleaning it with some WD40 then put some grease over the plunger and the lever pin.
AAU is a lean stage one kit needle which can be reprofiled to iron out lean spots. Thats what at a rolling road they should do.
Usually AAA is the correct needle for a stage one 998 mini.
At the Rolling road they will be adjusting timing and carb fuelling to the optimal settings for power or economy.
Go to a good mini trained RR, and beware that many of them set carburation too rich or adjust it just for top end power.
I adjust mixture reprofiling the needle in each of the 9 main stations by running each station and checking the air fuel ratio with a lambda sensor.
Sorry but cant help on the heater question as i dont understand which hole/pipe you're referring to.

#3 minimender

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Posted 25 August 2011 - 03:28 PM

Should be a large pipe ducting fresh air to the heater, it runs along the inner wing and in above the pedals and across to the heater.

Have you tried richening the mixture a tad and checking the burn colour again?

Rolling road will check power output and adjust things like timing and fuel mixture until its at it's best.

Never had a rolling road session myself as I couldn't afford one, I test on the road with a stopwatch, if it gets faster betwen to points then thats the adjustments improving things.
I use the same revs as a starting point and in the same gear every time, then boot it between two points and time it.

Edited by minimender, 25 August 2011 - 03:28 PM.


#4 myredmini

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Posted 25 August 2011 - 03:48 PM

Is the squeak constant when depressed as it could be the release bearing.

Dan

#5 jakejakejake1

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Posted 25 August 2011 - 04:24 PM

Thanks for the help :proud:

Sometimes i will depress the clutch and the squeak/ squeal will stay there until i lift the clutch again, other times it stays for a few seconds before disappearing. So possibly the release bearing then?

And i tried to adjust the idle mixture and got it running rich at idle, which helps a bit higher up so its not running too lean, but obviously this is not ideal!
For a rolling road which would be my best bet in the south west, i live in Exeter so am thinking either Alan Jeffery in Plymouth, or going to Slarks while i'm at uni in Bath. Both these guys have good reviews but which would be better?

Thanks, Jake

#6 =Dooley

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 01:17 PM

Not a great fan of Alan Jeffrey , messed a few of my mates around, RatRace In Torquay are very good and specialise In minis.

#7 myredmini

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 01:42 PM

Yes if it's like a squeal when it's depressed and stops when you lift off the clutch it's more than likey the release bearing. Do you ride the clutch? Eg. Drive with your foot resting on the clutch pedel. This pushes the plunger which makes the release bearing spin and not disengage the clutch resulting in the bearing wearing and not living as long as the clutch.

Hope this helps

Dan :thumbsup:

#8 jakejakejake1

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 01:11 AM

I will give ratt race a ring in the morning to find out prices etc, as they have none on their website, but thanks for the advice, its closer than Alan too :)
And I don't ride the clutch, I haven't owned the car long so maybe the previous owner did or something. But at least i know roughly what the problem is now

Thanks for help

Jake

#9 myredmini

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 01:22 AM

Woo someone else awake too lol. No worries :)

#10 jakejakejake1

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 12:23 AM

Reviving the dead here :) but the squeal/ squeaking has progressed somewhat, it now happens less often, but also when in gear/ neatral with the clutch released. Would this still indicate the clutch release bearing, or not due to it happening with the clutch released?

And while on the topic of noises, my timing chain is rattling, I believe my car has the tensioned type (998, 1992), what is likely to be causing this noise? and how would I go about fixing it, i'm expecting to have to replace the chain, gears and tensioner, as well as the seals and gaskets.
Is there a kit that includes all of these parts?

#11 jaydee

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 10:26 AM

Did you try cleaning the clutch release plunger thouroghly and greasing it?
Yes the timing chain rattle can be caused by a worn tensioner pad.
I dont know if the full timing chain kit is still available, i had to buy separate parts last time i did it..

#12 moss6273

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 01:28 PM

I would check the thrust bearing very soon as you will find it practically impossible to change gear if it fails. At least you are mobile at the moment, you don't want it to fail when you are in the middle of nowhere without a mobile signal!!
It is a relatively straightforward job although it is fiddly to get at some of the clutch housing bolts and manoeuvring the cover. Once off, replacing the thrust bearing is easy, just make sure you check the ball at the end of the clutch lever arm for wear and clean/lubricate all moving parts before reassembly. You will need some assistance and some large, thin spanners to adjust the release plunger end float and lock the plunger in position. Just be patient, and if all else fails, get hold of the Haynes manual, it will describe exactly what and how to check everything.
As regards the timing chain issue, speak to Minispares (01707 607700 (UK)), tell them what you are after and they should be able to assit you. As an alternative to the simplex chain, you may wish to consider upgrading to a duplex set up, they are a bit more durable and if you go for the adjustable one, you can get your cam timing spot on if you ever change your cam (it fits the 1275 too).
Keep us posted.




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