10 replies to this topic

[KTM kid]

I have just taken off the old steering rack and will shortly replace the stripped u bolts and put a new rack in but I have noticed that the suspension
is very close to hitting other parts so have placed photo here for your advice incase I have donr something wrong or but thing on wrong way?
this looks to close for comfort?

I have adjusted the bar below the roll bar, which will turn out but the anti roll bar then dose not wish to line up straight with the drop link?
other side

dose not seem right!!!

[cptkirk]

This isnt an answer to your question, however the blade of the anti roll bar needs to be rotated so its flat to the floor which will be at its softest setting. As it is there is like having a solid bar between the two uprights.

Anotehr little bit of advice with regards to the ARB, if you can, remove it drill a hole in the side of the sleeve that the ARB blade goes into and weld on a nut or threaded sleeve that will allow you to tighten a bolt to the side of the ARB blade to stop it from rotating.

[KTM kid]

Thanks for that tip. I will adjust it and see about welding a nut to the blade.

[cptkirk]

Thanks for that tip. I will adjust it and see about welding a nut to the blade.

For fear of you misunderstanding what I emant and actually welding a nut to the blasde I thought I had best do a quick drawing to explain what it is that I meant. Hopefully things will become clearer once you have seen it:

[RED HOT]

this looks to close for comfort?

Mine looked like that when it was first built up, in fact the head on my socket cap screws is bigger than the ones you've pictured and they actually prevented movement.

I've since spaced it out slightly further using a bigger spacer and had the alignment done. I'm pretty sure I don't have the issue now. I'll take a quick snap later though and pop it up to show what gap I have currently.

Edited by RED HOT, 31 August 2011 - 09:47 AM.

[RED HOT]

[KTM kid]

Thanks for the diagram kirk.you where right again i did misunderstand.

[KTM kid]

Thanks for the photo redhot, I think I will try a couple off extra washers if this dose not push it away. then I will get some spacers made.

[cptkirk]

Guys, donrt forget that for every mm of spacer you put on those bolts is another mm closer you have to place the fuel tank to the radiator. Also if you end up using longer bolts be sure to get the same high tensile rating (most probably 12.9 in that area).

[RED HOT]

Guys, donrt forget that for every mm of spacer you put on those bolts is another mm closer you have to place the fuel tank to the radiator. Also if you end up using longer bolts be sure to get the same high tensile rating (most probably 12.9 in that area).

Mine probably isn't the best example of how it should be done to be honest, I was really trying to show that you aren't the only one with this issue. I actually plan to reduce the spacer requirement now the geo is set up a bit better and also change the type of bolt as the socket cap is rather large so doesn't exactly help. Also going to change all the steel spacers to anodised ones before it all goes back in again; I hate the cheap spacers provided, half weren't even de-burred!

Andy - My charge cooler radiator soon ate away at any gap I did have! and yes high tensile bolts should be used if changing so good mention.

[KTM kid]

Thanks for the reply. I have a good inch left on the back of the nut I could take up, but It will only push it up to fuel tank like you said. So will place extra washers on, even if its only 3mm it 3mm of clearance.Thanks Lads