21 replies to this topic

[Deathrow]

I'm in the process of installing new wheel bearings in my freshly rebuilt hubs. After drifting both outer races in to place using a brass drift. I'm noticing there are tiny pieces of brass all over the place.

Is this normal behaviour for a brass drift because it's so soft or do I need to invest in a better tool for the job?

I imagine I need to knock the races back out and clean the hub again before I have another go?

[bmcecosse]

Just clean out the brass!

[Deathrow]

It's got everywhere though, including down the chamfer between the bearing race and hub and it doesn't want to shift. last thing I want is for that to get pulled through the bearing.

I'll have another whirl tomorrow using a different technique.

(I'm a perfectionist )

[Ethel]

You most likely caught an edge on the bearing to chip the drift.

[Deathrow]

Maybe, they just seem to do it all the time. No matter how gentle or cautious I am with positioning, small specs of brass go everywhere .

Oh well. I'm going to linish down an old outer race and use that to tap them in gently.

[Kam]

I got these cheap ones from machine mart

http://www.machinema...vepin-punch-set

Put a couple layers of duct tape or something on the flat surface, worked well with my hubs amongst other things and no scratches

[blackbelt1990]

I always use the old bearing to knock the new one in... never had a problem.

[Frisco]

Yeah brass is too soft for that jub really. I have a set of bronze ones for this kind of thing but if your careful normal steel ones are fine

[dklawson]

Though I have brass rods around my garage, I seldom use them as drifts.

Service manuals and other books say NOT to do this... but I use a mild steel rod to tap the races into place. My thought is that the bearing race is typically made from very hard steel (probably grade 52100 with a hardness around Rockwell Rc65) and the mild steel rods I have around are much softer (probably around Rockwell Rc25). In short, the mild steel should be incapable of scratching or denting the race. To date I haven't had a problem but I cannot endorse this for everyone as it goes against all the texts.

[Deathrow]

Haynes specifically states to use a brass drift Doug (that's where I got the idea from).

I've linished down the outside of an old race now so I'll use that. Shouldn't be any issue since it will spread the load across the entire face of the race.

What do you think Doug? Seems to be the done thing these days.

Thanks for the replies everyone!

[dklawson]

Yeh, I know what the books say about brass. That's why I said I can't endorse for others what I do. Regardless, I'll continue to use mild steel when I need to do this task.

Your decision to use an old race to seat a new one is entirely up to you. I've done it myself so I can tell you it does work. However, like my use of a mild steel drift, using an old race isn't mentioned in the manuals.

[Deathrow]

Ah fair enough. I got confused, I thought you were saying the books say not to use brass, my bad.

I'll use the old race, I've not found anyone who's had trouble with it yet. I'll just go easy and tap it gently until it's home.

Thanks again!

[Shifty]

Really the best way to fit bearings not by tapping, its by the application of pressure in either a press or a vice.

If you're really concerned its possible to make up a tool to do this..

- Linish down the old race
- Weld a length of flat bar accross the race(so no part sticks outside the race)
-Drill a hole in the centre of the bar(which is the centre of the race)
-Now get another bit of bar/box section/plate which is bigger than the hole on the other side of the hub and drill a hole in the centre,
- You need either a very long bolt or some all thread, this passes through the welded hole + the hub + the big plate.
- Put a nut on the bolt(or both ends if its all thread) and tighten up.

If you understand my descripition, the action of winding the nut will press in the new race without the need for hitting.

[Kam]

I've also used a socket before wrapped up to drive the races home, can't remember the size of the socket though, the big one

[MRA]

Using an old race is potentially very dangerous, as they are both hard and can chip, flying steel chips are really not a nice thing to have embedded in your body or eyes....

Apparently on a recent Mythbusters, they found that clanging two hammers together can result in near supersonic flying chips........

Brass is fine, however Bronze is better, you can also use alluminium..... the reason is because they are soft and if you "lose" a shard it will not destroy your bearing... where as steel can and will definately damage if not destroy your bearing/s.