Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Copper grease / Brake adjuster bolt


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 gsms

gsms

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,285 posts
  • Location: London

Posted 29 January 2006 - 09:58 PM

Could someone please show me where exactly to smear the copper grease on the rear brake shoes..? I'm guessing its at the top where they are held in the "groove", also in the groove at the wheel cylinder at the bottom maybe..?

...also, does the square bolt at the top of the backing plate adjust the effectiveness of the brakes? Should I loosen it to the point where the wheel can be easily turned freely by hand?

Cheers. Guy.

#2 Jammy

Jammy

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 25,397 posts

Posted 29 January 2006 - 10:28 PM

I put a thin lair all over the back.

#3 gsms

gsms

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,285 posts
  • Location: London

Posted 30 January 2006 - 09:22 AM

Thanks james,

Could someone also tell me what the square bolt does, and how tight it should be please?

Cheers. Guy.

#4 Dan

Dan

    On Sabbatical

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 21,354 posts

Posted 30 January 2006 - 09:51 AM

Grease points are the raised squares on the backplate that the shoes slide over, each end of the brakeshoe rib where it engages the slots, where the handbrake lever engages the rib, the adjuster wedges should be removed and greased as should the adjuster screw (it only comes out of the front of the plate, grease the thread and the cone). Hit all these with a LIGHT smear of Copperslip. Then the pivot in the handbrake lever (outside the brake drum) and all the pivot and sliding points on the handbrake cable need to be hit with LM grease.

To adjust them get the whole back of the car up on stands with the wheels on (securely chock and wedge the front wheels to stop it rolling) and let the handbrake off. Turn in the adjuster 'till the wheel is locked up tight and then just back it off slowly until the wheel starts to turn freely. It shouldn't be so free that it keeps on turning for ages when you spin it, it should come to a stop within one or two turns when you do that. Get both sides nicely balanced to each other, then pull the handbrake on and check that they are both locked up. You can adjust the handbrake to work in three or four clicks now and you can also check the effectiveness of the footbrake if you can get someone to apply them for you.

#5 Jammy

Jammy

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 25,397 posts

Posted 30 January 2006 - 09:52 AM

Oh, hang on, just realised you were talking about rear brake shoes! Not front pads! I've never but any copper grease on the rears, but if you were to use some I'd guess that you'd but it were it fits in the groove on the wheel cylinder. That square bolt adjusts the rear brake shoes, you tighten it (push it in more), and it acts as a wedge between the brake shoes to move them out towards the drum.

#6 minidaves

minidaves

    Up Into Fourth

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,933 posts
  • Location: kent
  • Local Club: mine

Posted 30 January 2006 - 10:39 AM

rear adjuster should be done to the point you canhear the rear pads rub againest the drum, as for copper grease, bit at the top and a bit on the wheel cylinder thats it

dave

#7 gsms

gsms

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,285 posts
  • Location: London

Posted 30 January 2006 - 01:14 PM

Thanks for the replies guys, its exactly what I wanted to know! :lol:

Cheers. Guy.




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users