1984 mini25 with the factory fitted smith’s 120mph 3-clock dash.
When I was out yesterday the non-factory alarm that I’d fitted a few years ago, but had disconnected due to some fault I never got round to investigate fix decided to act up.
The main power and earth for the alarm had been disconnect, but the immobiliser relay left as it was. Its been left this way for a good 2 years or so with no other problems, up until now.
When for some strange reason (probably the relay packing up?) the car would only start with the ‘disconnected’ alarm in the alarmed setting. So the only way I could drive it was to disconnect the horn and temporally remove the hazard relay.
I’ve since completely removed the alarm and the immobiliser wiring. But because I’d originally chosen to mount the alarm module on top of the pedal bracket and the 2 separate relay models on the clocks bracket, that meat I had to remove the clocks.
Everything was working fine before hand, but as is the way with minis you fix one problem…. This time it’s the temperature gauge.
It works fine most of the time, but its now chosen to flicker/jump around, return to reading normal and then go back to flickering and jumping around again, Doing this repeatedly over and over again for my entire journey.
But I’m a bit stuck to what to look for, as the temperature gauge does work normally (most of the time) and so do all the other dials and gauges.
I also get an intermittent metallic/metal rattle/buzzing sound, but haven’t been able to tell if it’s related to the temperature gauge problem or not.

Temperature Gauge Flickering
Started by
1984mini25
, Sep 20 2011 11:27 PM
5 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 20 September 2011 - 11:27 PM
#2
Posted 21 September 2011 - 01:13 AM
Sounds like a loose connection on the gauge - whip it out and check the back - the terminals might be loose. The buzzing/rattle could be the loose connection, and as the connection breaks and makes, the guage will go up and down - had the same problem with my oil pressure gauge!
#3
Posted 21 September 2011 - 06:00 AM
does sound like a loose wire
the easy place to cheek is the sender on the head, if it's not there behind the dash
the easy place to cheek is the sender on the head, if it's not there behind the dash
#4
Posted 23 September 2011 - 01:38 PM
I’ve since had a chance to check and clean up all the wiring connections as suggested and… it’s made little to no difference. In fact the fuel gauge has now also decided to join in on the fun and play up as well.
So I’m thinking that the 27-year-old voltage stabiliser has packed in, but is my only option £40 for a new one from minispares?
So I’m thinking that the 27-year-old voltage stabiliser has packed in, but is my only option £40 for a new one from minispares?
#5
Posted 23 September 2011 - 02:34 PM
voltage stabiliser is my next guess
#6
Posted 12 October 2011 - 09:32 PM
Right to say I’m pissed off is an understatement.
I’ve since replaced the voltage stabiliser for a new one at the cost of over £60 witch hasn’t fixed the problem, in fact its now worse.
I’ve tried finding a spare set of 120mph smith’s clocks and fitting those gave exactly the same results and have since resorted back to the originals.
I’ve also changed just about every earth point, cleaned up every terminal and replaced near enough every connector between the dials and fuse box.
SO FAR NOTHING HAS WORKED.
What really gets me is the dials do work normally, then flitter about, work, flutter, work etc, etc.
I’ve since replaced the voltage stabiliser for a new one at the cost of over £60 witch hasn’t fixed the problem, in fact its now worse.
I’ve tried finding a spare set of 120mph smith’s clocks and fitting those gave exactly the same results and have since resorted back to the originals.
I’ve also changed just about every earth point, cleaned up every terminal and replaced near enough every connector between the dials and fuse box.
SO FAR NOTHING HAS WORKED.
What really gets me is the dials do work normally, then flitter about, work, flutter, work etc, etc.
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