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Outer Sills


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#1 zcars

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 10:52 AM

Whats the best way of attaching the outer sills. I was thinking of seam welding underneath and cleaning the lip up on the door sill and possibly hiring a spot welder to do this top seam? Any thourghts would be appreciated.

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Can i grind this back to make it flat / neater - treat the rust, etch prime and then spot weld thinking of hiring one for the week (£80)


any help appreciated


Cheers Kev

#2 Tupers

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 11:08 AM

I use a hole punch like this and put a hole into the sill every 15MM and hold it to the car with mole grips and weld into the holes in a circular motion.

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#3 zcars

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 11:16 AM

Hi,

Thanks for that looks a pretty neat job.

#4 Shifty

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 11:28 AM

I tend to prefer to seam weld, I find it easier and to my mind its stronger. After all they seam weld rally car shells for strength.

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#5 Nikral

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 11:39 AM

i think seam welding is a bit overkill unless as stated you are thinking of taking it rallying, i just puddle welded along the the top and bottom which will hold it quite sufficiently, if you are going to hire a spot welder for the job just check the wiring in the garage is rated for the equipment.

#6 valve bounce

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 11:40 AM

i usually seam weld the bit were its up against the floor, then spot weld the bit were it joins to the doorstep thats only because i have a spot welder and it looks neater, before i got the spot welder i plug welded it.

#7 Shifty

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 11:53 AM

I've got a spot welder and I still seam weld it. I very rarely use, actually only really for wings.

#8 minidaves

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 01:36 PM

i think atm i am worried about the quailty of the welding that has been done on the floor, dont look like alot of pentration in that weld so no strength

#9 Shifty

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 01:43 PM

i think atm i am worried about the quailty of the welding that has been done on the floor, dont look like alot of pentration in that weld so no strength



Good point and I missed that.

Daves right that floor welding doesn't look too clever and its a potential hazzard.

If you're building a z car as you name suggests then your welding and repairs will need to be top notch.

#10 zcars

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 06:33 PM

Its the first time i have used a welder, i have it on the lowest setting as it was putting holes in the replacement panels, i have tested it with a hammer lol. Think i will grind it back and drill some holes and plug weld also. I have dropped the wire size down to .6 and started using gas for the internal weld and it seems a lot better. Using a Clarke 100en turbo on max and setting 1 speed about 6. If anybody lives near Toronto - Co Durham and wants to give me some welding lesons i would appreciate it

#11 087dave

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 06:47 PM

hi, i have a clarke 135en and i put it on min setting 1 wire speed 7 for .9 steel or if i feel brave put setting on 2
Dave

#12 minisi35

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Posted 26 September 2011 - 04:09 PM

do they not have to be seam welded to pass the mot?

#13 Tupers

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Posted 26 September 2011 - 05:44 PM

We've been doing them as shown in my photos for nearly 30 years and never had an issue when it came to MOT time.

#14 sonikk4

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Posted 26 September 2011 - 05:51 PM

Outer sills are normally spot welded on anyway so it you are replacing the complete sill then it can be spot welded or plug welded in place.

However if you were to do a repair on the outer sill then this will need to be seam welded. The spot/plug welds will need to be pitched the same as the manufacturers so you are looking at roughly 1" apart.

#15 zcars

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Posted 15 October 2011 - 05:50 PM

Bit of an update

Got myself one of these
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And been busy this morning
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