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What Goes On First?


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#1 A.Millican

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 09:43 PM

Ok,

I am doing a full rebuild of a mini i will post a propper build thread later :)

I need to know what goes on first and then in ascending order of application please.

Seam sealer
etch primer
zinc primer
stonechip
primer

Cheers - Andrew

#2 ryan22_lgm

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 11:03 PM

1. etch primer
2.primer
3.seam sealer
4. stone chip

zinc primer is for use on bare metal to weld through and should be etched after.

#3 sonikk4

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 06:41 PM

Now don't shoot me for saying this but once you have fitted new panels seam seal them first (i use Aviation sealant that has anti corrosion properties mixed in.) Now having been through all of this with Project Erm the stone chip should not be put on etch primer as it will react. I ended putting it on clean bare metal. Then primed and painted it. (Erm is going to be more show car than road car)

I was warned about the perils of stonechip over new paint/primer etc by Panelbeaterpeter and boy was he right.

The zinc primer can be used as a normal primer as well but its up to you if you decide to spray the whole car in it.

Normal panels etch, filler primer,primer, paint. Be wary about the E coat on your new panels. If its a Magnum sourced panel and the E coat is a dull grey then remove it completely. Its rubbish. The Heritage E coat a normally shiny black coating is very good.

Now my problems may has stemmed from using Halfords Acrylic paints which caused a lot of my reactions so i no longer use them (alright for touching up local areas. I have been using Upol products and have had good results. My top coat i get mixed by a Autopaints for spray can use and very good as well.



I'm not saying this is all down to the primers, paints etc from Halfords but i had to strip everything back in the paintshop to stop reactions from occurring.

I may have been unlucky with what happened as other people have not had as many problems but then i have replaced just about every panel on Erm.

#4 grahama

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 06:54 PM

So, stonechip is a no no over primer then?? Is there a variety that is safe to use over primer??

#5 sonikk4

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 07:05 PM

I would try a little area first Graham. You know all of the problems i had and that was even using the Gravitex stone chip as well.

#6 A.Millican

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 10:28 PM

Ok, thanks for the advice, There isn't that much "steel to paint" as alot of the car is carbon.. roof, front end, doors, bootfloor, boot lid.. the pannels i have used are heritage and have the shiney black stuff on them :)

The car will not be venturing out into the bad weather.. I was wanting the underside of the car to be the same as the rest of the shell.

Would you suggest taking the shell back to bare matal and then etch priming or at least down to the original paintwork?

The full floor has been replaced in 1 big lump, do i need to take off the top layer? (black shiney stuff) then underseal primer and paint?

Do i seam seal even before i have etch primed?

Slightly confused.

Cheers - Andrew

#7 midridge2

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Posted 05 October 2011 - 09:01 AM

etch primer is a paint that is put on bare metal so it bites into the metal and then primer is placed over that, basic primer will not stick to bare metal as good as etch primer, so just think of etch as a good undercoat of primer with primer over the top.

to ensure the best protection, etch the bare metal then basic primer over that, then if the panel is seen and the prep work is not to good, place high build primer over that, (if you put basic primer over high build you are just going to flat it off when you rub down, wasting time and money) i would then recommend painting the areas were you are going to seam seal, then put the seam sealer on, now the areas that you want to put spray underseal on can be done with the underseal and then if you want you can paint over that if the type you use can be over painted.

from my experience the reactions that happen between etch and underseal are because the etch is not left long enough to harden.

if you are using genuine panels then the coating on them just needs a flat down and any bare metal parts can be etched then basic primer put on the whole panel, if using copy panels they have a protective coating that needs to be fully removed then etched and primed.

i hope this helps and clears a few things up.

#8 A.Millican

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Posted 09 October 2011 - 09:09 PM

All of this information is very helpful thanks guys,

I will have a bit experiment and see what happens!

Thanks - Andrew




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