Hi I'm almost ready for painting my mini but I'm stumped as to what to use!!
I've read so many topics and website for advice as to which Kind of paint to use and there telling me that many different things I'm lost.
I've herd thing like cellulose paints are harder to come by and don't give as good of a finish.
2 pack paint is dangerous for home use due to gases it gives off
Then there's which type ov primer. Etch primer. High build primer. Do u need to use thinners or hardners or both. What kind ov base coat. How many layers.
It's all a bit much for me I'm just used to acrylic rattle cans lol.
What I'm asking for is a brake down of what I need And what mixes on each stage.
Help will be much appreciated. Dying to get it back on the road again.
Cheers shane

Paint Help!
Started by
shane_roberts
, Oct 09 2011 08:07 PM
7 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 09 October 2011 - 08:07 PM
#2
Posted 09 October 2011 - 08:10 PM
Have a look here, its quite a good guide to painting.
http://retrorides.pr...nt&thread=48784
For home use you really should use celluose, you don't need an air fed mask and you won't kill your neighbours fish either.
http://retrorides.pr...nt&thread=48784
For home use you really should use celluose, you don't need an air fed mask and you won't kill your neighbours fish either.
#3
Posted 09 October 2011 - 09:24 PM
cellulose is good. an older type paint that is currently in the process of being phased out. classic car restoring companys can still get hold of it so you can get in contact with them. im sure they would be happy to help. 2 pack will be dangerous so id rule that out.
you would use etch primer if yo were trying to protect and prime bare metal, because it etches into the metal and is hard to get of.
high build primer is thicker so you get a thicker application so it fills tiny sanding marks and gives you a good base to wet sand it down.
ideal process from bare metal would be.
de ( nib) getting rid of the sharp metal bits to give a nice Finnish
etch primer.

light rub down, just to clean the paint up and to make flat. 120, 280 grit paper will do. 800 grit wet sanding if you are a stickler for finish

fill it!
normal primer, as many coats as you like 3 - 4 would be good

( we went around the edges here, something my dad likes to do, builds up paint on the edges as not much paint gets on here

final going over with 800 grit paper using water and even 1000 if your crazy!
then top coat!

we did 3 coats. good finish. the undercoat we used standox flow coat. really advise this.
good luck!
remember to clean with panel wipe and tacky rag every time! also filler dents in BEFORE final undercoat. so basically after the etch primer 8)
you would use etch primer if yo were trying to protect and prime bare metal, because it etches into the metal and is hard to get of.

ideal process from bare metal would be.
de ( nib) getting rid of the sharp metal bits to give a nice Finnish
etch primer.

light rub down, just to clean the paint up and to make flat. 120, 280 grit paper will do. 800 grit wet sanding if you are a stickler for finish

fill it!
normal primer, as many coats as you like 3 - 4 would be good

( we went around the edges here, something my dad likes to do, builds up paint on the edges as not much paint gets on here

final going over with 800 grit paper using water and even 1000 if your crazy!
then top coat!

we did 3 coats. good finish. the undercoat we used standox flow coat. really advise this.
good luck!
remember to clean with panel wipe and tacky rag every time! also filler dents in BEFORE final undercoat. so basically after the etch primer 8)
Edited by MiniclubmanGT, 09 October 2011 - 09:25 PM.
#4
Posted 09 October 2011 - 09:28 PM
hi mate, i sent you a pm with some info on the paints and products. hope they are a help!!!
you can use the p88 upol primer over bare metal but using an etch primer the best way to go if you are going back to bare metal.
you can buy etch primer in a kind of cellulose type form (as it doesnt require a hardener) upol acid 8 (etch primer 1K) excellent product-comes pre mixed/thinned and lays very flat once sprayed.
then use the p88 celly primer over the top. black up with old can of black paint then flatten down.
celly paint but use a good high gloss thinner and the finish will be much better.
the primer will require a small amount of thinners, to make it easier to spray.
the celly paint will require thinners aswell
hope this helps sam
also mate make sure you buy a good mask aswell with proper filters. gerson sell a kind of disposable mask that is one of the only ones i no of thats ok to use with 2k paints. so definatly fine to spray celly! and cheap really £20
you can use the p88 upol primer over bare metal but using an etch primer the best way to go if you are going back to bare metal.
you can buy etch primer in a kind of cellulose type form (as it doesnt require a hardener) upol acid 8 (etch primer 1K) excellent product-comes pre mixed/thinned and lays very flat once sprayed.
then use the p88 celly primer over the top. black up with old can of black paint then flatten down.
celly paint but use a good high gloss thinner and the finish will be much better.
the primer will require a small amount of thinners, to make it easier to spray.
the celly paint will require thinners aswell
hope this helps sam
also mate make sure you buy a good mask aswell with proper filters. gerson sell a kind of disposable mask that is one of the only ones i no of thats ok to use with 2k paints. so definatly fine to spray celly! and cheap really £20
#5
Posted 10 October 2011 - 04:00 PM
Thats great. Cheers for the advice.
Just one more question.....sorry.
When using celly paint do u not use a laquer or top coat? Is it just more thinners in the mix?
Also the finish on your clubby looks awesome. What kind of paint is that? I'm guessing 2k cause the shine is amazing.
Cheers again
Shane
Just one more question.....sorry.

When using celly paint do u not use a laquer or top coat? Is it just more thinners in the mix?
Also the finish on your clubby looks awesome. What kind of paint is that? I'm guessing 2k cause the shine is amazing.
Cheers again
Shane
#6
Posted 10 October 2011 - 07:33 PM
cellulose mate, just good prep.
when using cellulose you dont need lacquer. just a top coat of colour. and from standox ( any paint shop will have one, you could get one from them) you can get a measuing stick and has levels with a ratios on so you can mix it right. it must be for the right paint type ( ie 2k, celluloce ect) or else it wont work right
when using cellulose you dont need lacquer. just a top coat of colour. and from standox ( any paint shop will have one, you could get one from them) you can get a measuing stick and has levels with a ratios on so you can mix it right. it must be for the right paint type ( ie 2k, celluloce ect) or else it wont work right


#7
Posted 11 October 2011 - 06:52 AM
when using cellulose you dont need lacquer. just a top coat of colour.
unless its cellulose clear over base then you need a laquer.
unless its cellulose clear over base then you need a laquer.
#8
Posted 11 October 2011 - 12:03 PM
Wow cellulose that has surprised me. Well top marks to u mate looks spot on.
Cheers for all the help guys now just to figure out which Color to go lol.
Cheers for all the help guys now just to figure out which Color to go lol.
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