I began to hear a slight squeak at random times when driving along, the problem then gradually started to increase, to an extent the squeak was almost continuous, but lately it has now calmed down, however on looking under the car, it seems to look like the sub frame has gone, and there’s quite a lot of rust, although, the squeak may be my exhaust as i clipped it pulling over on a country road, and have now bent the mounting clamp under neither.
Has anyone else had this problem and by any chance is it just the sub frame in need of greasing or completely replacing?
Cheers
Hobnob888

Squeaky Subframe?
Started by
hobnob888
, Oct 13 2011 11:01 AM
8 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 13 October 2011 - 11:01 AM
#2
Posted 13 October 2011 - 11:05 AM
The squak from the subframe (assuming it is actually the subframe that is squeaking) come from shot mountings, it is particullary noticeable when poly mountings are fitted.
No greasing needed for the subframe, really check how bad the rust is, if its just surface rust, cure it.
No greasing needed for the subframe, really check how bad the rust is, if its just surface rust, cure it.
#3
Posted 13 October 2011 - 11:09 AM
Alright cheers, I've been meaning to get down to our workshop but having the time to do it is so limited. Are the shot mountings easy to replace?
#4
Posted 13 October 2011 - 11:21 AM
Radius arms need greasing, - have you done that?
#5
Posted 13 October 2011 - 11:30 AM
ummm not to my knowledge, trying to find all the grease nipples was a mission its self, but i will try and do that as some as, thanks.
#6
Posted 13 October 2011 - 11:46 AM
Radius arm, subframe bushes, and shock bushes. Check them all. Any are worn replace them. Poly bushes will last a LOT longer
#7
Posted 13 October 2011 - 01:28 PM
Although this is more an issue with the front, a squeek noise from the suspension is usually a worn knuckle joint cup. If the rubber doesn't sit over it properly, the grease gets washed away and the plastic/ nylon cup degrades. When it breaks up, the knuckle then starts squeeking on the top arm (front) or radius arm (rear)- metal on metal.
Obviously replace anything worn you find, but please don't asume poly bushes are any better. This is simply not true- the Minispares lower arm poly bushes I fitted on mine 6000 miles ago have already split- absolutely pathetic. The previous (rubber) ones had lasted 30 years
Obviously replace anything worn you find, but please don't asume poly bushes are any better. This is simply not true- the Minispares lower arm poly bushes I fitted on mine 6000 miles ago have already split- absolutely pathetic. The previous (rubber) ones had lasted 30 years

#8
Posted 13 October 2011 - 02:39 PM
'Poly lasts longer' is just a sales pitch in most applications like front teardrops, engine steady bushes and engine mountings.
The lower arm bushes need to be let a while to settle before torqueing the nut or they will destroy themselves in no time..
The lower arm bushes need to be let a while to settle before torqueing the nut or they will destroy themselves in no time..
#9
Posted 13 October 2011 - 07:02 PM
I'm quite capable of installing a suspension bush correctly, thanks
My example was used because the material is of poor quality and in some case, simply shouldn't be considered as an upgrade to a decent rubber item. Mind you, repro rubber parts are equally poor at the moment- the fuel tank to body rubber I fitted a few years back lasted a year before cracking up- again, the original lasted 30 years but had gone a bit hard by that time..
In fact, I think the best bet at the moment is to source genuine rubber components, either well-stored new/old stock or some last of the line Rover stuff!

In fact, I think the best bet at the moment is to source genuine rubber components, either well-stored new/old stock or some last of the line Rover stuff!
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