40 replies to this topic

[Dangerously-low Danny]

I've been reading up on engine oil for my mini and seem to be finding lots of contradictory information out there. It seems that the general consensus on here is that 20w50 mineral is the way to go with most engines.

My car is a 1995 1275 spi with 20k on the clock; currently full up with fully synthetic Q8 formula XL 5w40 as opposed to the semi synthetic 10w40 recomended in the handbook. I'm using the car for 10 lots of 1.5 mile journeys a week - murder on the engine I know so I try to take it out for longer runs in the evenings and weekends whenever I get chance.

I know from other sources that synthetic is harder to break down than mineral and really the only advantage I can see with mineral is the cost. I can see why people are running 20w50 for the longevity of the gears, but my question is why mineral? Is there something I've overlooked? I was planning on an oil change soon so want to make sure I put the right thing in before winter. Cheers!

[jaydee]

Synth oil has the ability to go past the old, used and abused seals very easily. And a synthetic 20W50 costs an arm and a leg, hence most of us are using mineral 20W50.

[Kinky_Kylie]

20w50 mineral. Its worked for 50 years why change!!!! My mini came with oil that was like water and leaked like a sieve!

I changed it out for good old 20w50 and now she only has a tiny leak (nothing major) I noticed the gear box felt smoother too.

[maggies_minder]

here we go...

20w50 mineral

[Dangerously-low Danny]

I'm okay with spending the extra for synth, as long as its not going to damage the engine when mineral won't. The car currently burns small to moderate amounts of oil (although I've not measured it). Would using mineral stop this?

[charliedurrant]

I thought that since the oil was dual purpose (gearbox and engine) then a minieral oil was more suitable as the mixture of molecules was more proficient for both purposes as compared to a synthetic.

Ready to be shot down now!

[jaydee]

I'm okay with spending the extra for synth, as long as its not going to damage the engine when mineral won't. The car currently burns small to moderate amounts of oil (although I've not measured it). Would using mineral stop this?

Mmm at a guess the mineral itself wont cure the issue, but a thicker grade will do. Try 10W40 or 20W50.

[_mini1000_]

millers classic mini oil 20w50

[Dangerously-low Danny]

I'm okay with spending the extra for synth, as long as its not going to damage the engine when mineral won't. The car currently burns small to moderate amounts of oil (although I've not measured it). Would using mineral stop this?

Mmm at a guess the mineral itself wont cure the issue, but a thicker grade will do. Try 10W40 or 20W50.

Thanks Jaydee, the use of 5w40 as opposed to 10w40 was suggested to me due to the mini being used for sort journeys; the thinking being that It'd heat up quicker. After reading through some threads here though I'm thinking that 20w50 would be the best as 10w40 is pretty similar to what I'm already on.

[jaydee]

I think no oil will heat up in1.5 miles, or probably a fully synth 0w50 will..Use an oil with an high ZDDP content for extra protection when engine cold.
Theres a memeber on here R1minimagic, who knows a lot abot oils, drop him a PM..


Also, why not going for a longer trip at sunday so the oil will reach its working temps long enough to burn all the residues collected in a week of start-and-stop usage?

[mini-luke]

What's wrong with the oil that it says in the handbook?

[Kinky_Kylie]

What's wrong with the oil that it says in the handbook?

From what ive read rover wanted to lower the differant oils they used across there car range so they didnt have to buy in loads of differant types, hence them changing the minis oil.

How true this is i dont know but sounds about right for rover to me lol.

[Dangerously-low Danny]

Yeah, I'm doing the longer run thing over the weekend, glad to hear that its a good thing to be doing for the car.

here we go...

20w50 mineral

millers classic mini oil 20w50

I'm able to get good quality synthetic fairly cheaply so back the the op, I wondered if there was something other than cost that mineral can give me. People are saying go with mineral, but haven't stated why.

Luke, I saw that a lot of members were going against this recommendation and using different grades depending on their engine setup and intended use. Technology has moved on since the cars were made and I'm sure they can benefit from it.

Edited by Dangerously-low Danny, 16 October 2011 - 09:50 PM.

[_mini1000_]

millers have spent a serious amount time and research on creating the best mineral oil for a mini engine. do you think they would have done this if you could get the same results from using a semi-synthetic/synthetic oil?
http://www.millersoi...lassic&cart_id=

[jaydee]

Yes, thecnology has moved on, changing the specs of the addictives used in the oils, the API grading is there to identify the 'technology' used.
Steer well clear of the newer API specs like SM because they lowered the ZDDP content because it damages the cat on the newer cars.