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Weber Inlet


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#1 dean.austin

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 07:50 PM

hia everyone how long should an inlet to a weber be and does it matter ?

#2 Artful Dodger

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 08:06 PM

a 7" long inlet manifold for a weber45 makes the most out of it, but you have to have a bulkhead weber box :)

#3 dean.austin

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 08:44 PM

yes i have a weber box already there its in the car at the moment i was just wondering if it was the rite setup

#4 Artful Dodger

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 08:47 PM

yes, its proved to be the best length manifold by Mr vizard, for reasons beknown to me, as i didnt read in depth. but if you have the book, then you will have your answer :)

#5 MJWarren

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 08:54 PM

The longer the manifold the more mid range torque

Edited by MJWarren, 17 October 2011 - 08:55 PM.


#6 dean.austin

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 08:55 PM

em im not shure what lenght it is ill measure it tomorrow to dark now eh the engine has a slark racing head with the normal sort od things done to the head such as
ported
oversized valves
dubble valve springs and gasflowed
its also bored to 1380 and running some sort of cam not sure

#7 dean.austin

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 08:56 PM

so the shorter the more low range pwoer or high range power

#8 mingy

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 08:58 PM

I had a 31/2" offset Janspeed type (see Vizards book if you,ve got it) with a weber 40 dcoe and J&R filter bolted to it ( Bulkhead box was already in ) and it went really well after it was set up at Minisport.
Rob Waddington the Dyno magician said it was a good inlet manifold that flows very well even though it was offset,but it was not the dreaded swan kneck type which flows badly.
Anything longer than 4" for a road going mini to me is in the race spec department where you,re not bothered about space / air filter etc.
A good straight or slight offset short type with correct length carb ram pipes and good flowing air filter will do the job providing the webers in good nick and set up as near as possible.

#9 dean.austin

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 09:01 PM

em im not shure it has a slight bend in it just slight up turn im running a 45 and its only been recerviced but i hav to get to tuined hard to do it your self i also have a vacume pipe for the brake servo off it bont no if that makes any difference

#10 dean.austin

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 09:03 PM

i also dont have any filter on it and i no i should but theres not much room even though i have a box

#11 mingy

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 09:07 PM

If it,s a 1380 with mods you should have a Weber 45 dcoe or the similar bolted to it for good performance,
I changed from a Weber 45 Dcoe to a single SU HIF44 with a torque master inlet manifold and got just a tad less bhp and torque output as the 45 and with better fuel economy as far as a 1380 is concerned and a smoother drivability.

#12 bmcecosse

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 09:10 PM

As per your other post - a big single HIF 44 is the way forward for you.

#13 mingy

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 09:13 PM

If you,ve got the proper bulkhead box ( usually a new battery box on it,s side)cut into the bulkhead you should be able to get a decent air filter in.
I,ve got some pics of my 40dcoe off the car with filter and manifold connected,i,ll try to put some up.

#14 mingy

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 09:30 PM

If you,ve got a brake servo pipe off it connected to a servo unit it will be a bonus for stopping a well set up 1380.. KEEP IT CONNECTED!
If you,re struggling to get it set up i would think about going for an SU HIF44 on a minispares inlet manifold and an ITG megaflow sponge type filter with an MED stubstack, you,ll get it all in easy and the SU is far easier to get set up ( just one needle to size ).
Thats what i,ve got and it,s a screamer of a setup on that type of engine spec which is virtually the same as yours.

#15 dean.austin

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 05:39 PM

thanks ill put up a link to a picture its just a bit hard to post a photo to a comment




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