Hi, Ive just stripping down what i thought was my 1330, turns out it was acctualy a 1275! but on the bright side it looks to be in good condition. Im now looking for abit of help, as i cant decide what i should do with it next.
The bores look good, no wear as do the rest of the internals. the crank has been reground, as the con rods.
i have a budget of around £1000 ish, maybe more. and as stated im looking to build a fast road engine, and track day car. it is not my daily car, just for a bit of weekend fun on a nice day.
So far the car has a Weber 45 DCOE and the cam looks like its been machined too, but theres no markings on it?
It also has a SWISS Inlet manifold, and a free flow exhaust.
Really, im just looking at getting som advice on were to go from here? any advice will be greatly apriciated.
Thanks Alot !

Fast Road Engine Build Guidence Needed
Started by
Max1330
, Nov 14 2011 09:41 PM
7 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 14 November 2011 - 09:41 PM
#2
Posted 14 November 2011 - 09:51 PM
Check for bore wear with a proper bore gauge. If it's OK just glaze-bust the bores and fit new piston rings.
You need a good cam and if you can't identify what yours is, then get a new one. The Kent 276 is good with a weber.
What you need is a really well gas-flowed head, if it hasn't already got one. Rob Walker Engineering in Witney, Oxon, is highly recommended. Valve sizes should be 35.6 mm inlet & 30.5 mm exhaust. Compression ratio shoulod be c. 10.5:1. Change the distributor for something like a Megajolt programmable one.
Lighten the flywheel and fit a centre main bearing strap. It's up to you whether you have the entire bottom end dynamically balanced. It's not essential if you are only going to be using 6500 rpm as you will with a 276 cam.
Have it all set-up on a rolling road.
Note that for high speed cornering to the right, as on a track, a centre oil pick-up pipe is absolutely essential.
Fit an oil cooler.
You need a good cam and if you can't identify what yours is, then get a new one. The Kent 276 is good with a weber.
What you need is a really well gas-flowed head, if it hasn't already got one. Rob Walker Engineering in Witney, Oxon, is highly recommended. Valve sizes should be 35.6 mm inlet & 30.5 mm exhaust. Compression ratio shoulod be c. 10.5:1. Change the distributor for something like a Megajolt programmable one.
Lighten the flywheel and fit a centre main bearing strap. It's up to you whether you have the entire bottom end dynamically balanced. It's not essential if you are only going to be using 6500 rpm as you will with a 276 cam.
Have it all set-up on a rolling road.
Note that for high speed cornering to the right, as on a track, a centre oil pick-up pipe is absolutely essential.
Fit an oil cooler.
#3
Posted 15 November 2011 - 05:58 PM
Yeah i can hopefully get hold of a bore gauge before the weekend and let you know exacly what condition there in then. the cam itself meassures 1.25" accross the "main Profile" if you can identify it? but i will look into getting something like a Kent. I belive the head is gas flowed, how well im not sure, again i can meassure the Vaulve sizes soon as.
What can i get out of a Meagajolt distributor? more accurate timing? how do they work?
i have already thought about lightening the flywheel, or buying new, as for the bottom end im not sure ill need it to rev out much more than 6500 revs for a fast road car.
I will defonatly be getting it roling roaded shortly after the build, so if anyone can recomend somewhere in the sw that would be great!
I have also thought about the center oil pick up, and oil cooler.
Thanks for the help again
What can i get out of a Meagajolt distributor? more accurate timing? how do they work?
i have already thought about lightening the flywheel, or buying new, as for the bottom end im not sure ill need it to rev out much more than 6500 revs for a fast road car.
I will defonatly be getting it roling roaded shortly after the build, so if anyone can recomend somewhere in the sw that would be great!
I have also thought about the center oil pick up, and oil cooler.
Thanks for the help again
#4
Posted 15 November 2011 - 09:06 PM
Also isit worth getting a David Vizard book for some help??
#5
Posted 15 November 2011 - 09:16 PM
vizards is a good starting point. megajolt isnt really a distributor like a conventional one its a wated spark coil pack system that basically replaces the dizzy and gives moe accurate adjustment of the igntion curve via a laptop. with regards to engine specs for fast road a 276 does go well with a weber and you can get some good torque from it. if your reving up the range like that id defo pay thats little bit extra and have all the rotating assembly balanced as you will notice it if you dont. lightened flywheels are always good fun but go too light and u'll see a drop in torque at certain revs/loads. an mg metro head would probably benifit you if you plan on moding it on a budget. like cooperman said keep the compression nice and high too the megajolt will help control igntion better than a dizy to get rid of some pinking/ det.
#6
Posted 16 November 2011 - 05:07 PM
Yeah i think ill look at getting a book then! so the megajolt is more of an ecu really then, right? ill look into getting a new cam i think, any preference on brands? as you say ill look at getting a 276 profile to work with my 45. while, and if it gets re bored, ill ask for a price on lightening the rest of the bottom too. (How much roughly should it be??) and ill keep that in mind with the flywheel too, dosent look like you can take alot off them anyway! i identifyed the head, i think its a MK3 Cooper S ? i will proberly just start modding this one. What sort of money are you looking at picking up one of thes megajolt dizzys for??
Thanks!
Thanks!
#7
Posted 16 November 2011 - 09:59 PM
Anyoneee

#8
Posted 16 November 2011 - 10:05 PM
There's a complete megajolt kit on eBay for around 350 quid! You could source all the bits for less possibly though!
And yeah, a megajolt is a programmable ignition!
And yeah, a megajolt is a programmable ignition!
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