20 replies to this topic

[golly]

I have tried to research this but I still don't know if a 800w amp is an overkill.
The headunit has a 4x45w output. I hope to use 2 number 120w 4 way speakers, 4 number 300w 4 way speakers, 12" subwoofer with buit-in amp. Is my choice of amp ok? Many thanks

[RossKnight]

All of these sound like 'peak' power, you want to be looking at RMS rating

What speakers/amps were you looking at?

[golly]

yes they are 'peak'

I am looking at the Edge range of speakers, 2 number ED204 - 40RMS, 4 number ED209 - 100RMS. Looking at the sub again I think I would go for the 12 Passive - 300RMS, this has no amp fitted.
The amp I am looking at is the ED7800 4/3/2 800w.
I hope this extra info helps.

[nafnaforiginal12]

I'm running an all edge sound system, i've got an ED71200 monoblock amp wired to an ED512 sub which sits in an optimise automotive enclosure in the boot with a bass boost controller mounted up front and i have the ED7800 amp with 4x ED209's...

Looking at the RMS values i'm not sure the ED7800 would be enough, have you seen the ED1600?
I think it's better to have to much power than not enough to drive the speakers properly, you can aways set the gain so you don't blow your speakers.

Edited by nafnaforiginal12, 20 November 2011 - 05:01 PM.

[RossKnight]

Bearing in mind my knowledge is really limited too, this is my understanding, I'm sure 'Ruckus' will be along to help soon.

You may want to reconsider your speaker choices, do you have a set budget?

Also with a mini, as you're aware, it's not the biggest car, and you don't need lots of speakers or rear fill as such, but a really simple system could be made with just a pair of components amped, and a sub.

Ruckus' post here on 6x9's may give you something to think about too

Also,

6x9's are not as such rubbish, but they have a few problems.

• They like any coaxial speaker they are a compromise, if you ask any speaker to cover the entire frequency range its going to struggle. Component speakers on the other hand have a driver matched with a cross over to cover a frequency range they are designed to cover and that alone.
• They are mostly cheaply made and cheaply sold... Pay **** get ****..
• They are regularly installed with little care or thought (due to the cheap purchase price) and thus dont even sound as good as they could.
• They are regularly installed Behind the listeners due to there size... Have full range speakers behind you and a basic error... if you don't understand just think about it for a bit!
• As they are offten installed on the back shelf they are easy to steal and so the get nicked at lot. (see 6)
• Chav's love them. (see 5)

But all that said, if they are installed upfront in doors or well designed/built pods they can sound OK... but really do yourself (any anyone reading this) and get some real speakers... I mean have you EVER seen a 6x9 in a home or pro audio speaker cabinet??!

I

[Ruckus]

I thought my ears were burning

Right first off Peak power figures on amps are BS.

RMS is the ONLY thing that matters.

Ok back to your system.

(I feel like I post this every few days! I should do a pinned thread )

Mini sound system 101:

For a balanced system in a mini all you need is:

• Source unit (Head unit etc)
• 4 channel amp 50 to 150 RMS watts per channel.
• 2 way Component speaker set, 6.5 mid preferred but 5.25" can work ok.
• 10 or 12" sub or 2 small 6.5 or 8" subs.

Install:

The mid bass drivers should be mounted at the front either in pods on the kick panels or in door builds, tweeters should be on the top dash in the corners or on the A-pillars a few inches up. They should be aimed across, drivers side aimed passagers head and vice versa.

2 channels on the Amp should be used to power the front comps. The other two should be bridged to power the sub or subs.

If you go for a 10 or 12" sub then you can mount it in the boot, but you must insure that the rear shelf has ample holes to allow the sound in to the cabin, and you will need to sounddeaden as much as you can.
If you go for a pair of smaller subs these can be mounted under the rear seats or even in builds in the rear bins.

And simply you do not need rear speakers in a mini if you have an amped front set of comps.
Stick the subs back there but not full range speakers.

[RossKnight]

Sound advise there...

[golly]

Thanks very much for your advise Ruckus, As I have already ordered the Edge ED204's it is still my plan to install these into the fibreglass dash in the area where the air vents would be. As the van has mk2 style doors my thoughts are to install a pair of component speakers in there. Would it be worth fitting another set in the lower consul aiming across the foot wells? Luckily I have loads of room in the back so I am leaning towards a pair of smaller subs just behind the seats. Am I now thinking in the right direction Ruckus? .....Mark

[Ruckus]

Where did you order them from? Remote selling act allows you to send them back without any cost to you within 7 days of delivery...

Really to make it clear. ONE set of good Component speakers installing up front is ALL you need (+ a sub if you wish).

Mid in the air vent area is prefect with tweeter up a little higher.

Adding more drivers here or there is not going to work well and you just end up with a lot of cheap speakers sounding cheap but loud.

[bunch1980]

I thought my ears were burning

Right first off Peak power figures on amps are BS.

RMS is the ONLY thing that matters.

Ok back to your system.

(I feel like I post this every few days! I should do a pinned thread )

Mini sound system 101:

For a balanced system in a mini all you need is:

• Source unit (Head unit etc)
• 4 channel amp 50 to 150 RMS watts per channel.
• 2 way Component speaker set, 6.5 mid preferred but 5.25" can work ok.
• 10 or 12" sub or 2 small 6.5 or 8" subs.

Install:

The mid bass drivers should be mounted at the front either in pods on the kick panels or in door builds, tweeters should be on the top dash in the corners or on the A-pillars a few inches up. They should be aimed across, drivers side aimed passagers head and vice versa.

2 channels on the Amp should be used to power the front comps. The other two should be bridged to power the sub or subs.

If you go for a 10 or 12" sub then you can mount it in the boot, but you must insure that the rear shelf has ample holes to allow the sound in to the cabin, and you will need to sounddeaden as much as you can.
If you go for a pair of smaller subs these can be mounted under the rear seats or even in builds in the rear bins.

And simply you do not need rear speakers in a mini if you have an amped front set of comps.
Stick the subs back there but not full range speakers.

Just a quick one, when you say holes in parcel shelf is this required if sub is in a sealed 12" box? There are holes in my parcel shelf the steel part of it with some sort of board on top as is standard do I need to open these up?

Edited by bunch1980, 21 November 2011 - 01:42 PM.

[Ruckus]

Just a quick one, when you say holes in parcel shelf is this required if sub is in a sealed 12" box? There are holes in my parcel shelf the steel part of it with some sort of board on top as is standard do I need to open these up?

Is the board solid? then yes.

Subs (All Speakers) are basically designed to move air to create frequency waves, if you stick them in a totally sealed box (the boot) how can the wave reach you the listener?

The answer is they cannot, what you end up hearing is the sympathetic resonance of the surrounding parts of the car and its panels.

You bought a Subwoofer to listen to the sound IT makes, not the sound a load of metal vibrating makes!

[bunch1980]

Just a quick one, when you say holes in parcel shelf is this required if sub is in a sealed 12" box? There are holes in my parcel shelf the steel part of it with some sort of board on top as is standard do I need to open these up?

Is the board solid? then yes.

Subs (All Speakers) are basically designed to move air to create frequency waves, if you stick them in a totally sealed box (the boot) how can the wave reach you the listener?

The answer is they cannot, what you end up hearing is the sympathetic resonance of the surrounding parts of the car and its panels.

You bought a Subwoofer to listen to the sound IT makes, not the sound a load of metal vibrating makes!

Pretty mush some sort of fibre board looks like to me! True did get quite a few rattles lol.

Would a stealth board from optimise be ok as guess this a board with holes but with some material over the holes and I of course will
not be putting speakers in holes.

Any advice on fixing down a sub box and amp with out either a boot liner kit and with out screwing in to the rear of the seat etc?

[Ruckus]

You can make a rear self in like 60 seconds!
Unless you really have no skill or tools i don't see a reason to buy one?

Edited by Ruckus, 21 November 2011 - 04:43 PM.

[bunch1980]

You can make a rear self in like 60 seconds!
Unless you really have no skill or tools i don't see a reason to but one?

lol true could even cut holes in existing and cover in carpet material to thanks!

[golly]

The head unit arrived yesterday (chrisbo pressie from Liz) and a brief glance of the wiring diagram has raised this question - a black wire with a green jack is listed as 'subwoofer'. would this be the Pre-amp Output (RCA jack) to run the amp? my fingers are crossed!!