4 replies to this topic

[Bradley Gaunt]

Is it recommended to fit ARP head studs when rebuilding a high spec engine? I have heard that so long as the head studs used are the ones with the 'y' in the end they should be fine... whats the verdict please?

[Carlzilla]

Either way i would fit new head studs, you don't know how many times the old studs have been torqued up and possibly stretched. The genuine quality ones are more expensive than i first thought, and for the extra money you may as well get the superior quality ARP studs for peace of mind, just follow the instructions carefully and you shouldn't have a problem.

Edited by Carlzilla, 27 November 2011 - 12:03 AM.

[Sprocket]

I would personally keep the original head studs if you can be confident they are an original genuine Austin Rover part and in good servicable condition. The are of fairly good quality.

New replacement head studs are simply not up to the job, unless you can be sure they are old stock genuine Rover parts, I have broken two non genuine ones, they are simply plastic. If I have any doubt, ARP would be my next choice. Minispares sell an 'uprated' head stud kit, but I have had one f those snap too, and broke my confidence in them at the same time. If you are going to be diss assembling the engine frequently then the only real option is the ARP bolts, the nuts screw on without any sign of binding and when tightening have a very pleasing and confidence building feel to them.

other than this, the ARP head studs are not necessary. I myself run the standard genuine studs on my 16 valve engine, as does Jimster and he pushes 30psi boost through his engine

[bmcecosse]

Even the 'dimpled' studs are fine -excessive head nut torque is a mistake - 50 ft lbf with the flanged nuts is plenty - on oiled threads.

[Bradley Gaunt]

So just to confirm the studs with the 'y' on the top are ok to use so long as they don't show any untoward signs of damage / wear?