7 replies to this topic

[beansontoast]

ive just put a fully rebuilt engine into my mini i took all of the clutch assembaly of the engine that was in mini and was working fine when removed when assembled and put into mini on new engine its not working.

Theres 100% no air in hydrolic system and its all adjusted properly but when you [press pedal clutch doesnt disengage. the clutch arm is operating properly.

i running out of ideas now for what this could be so hopefully someone on here might have a sugestion.

[bmcecosse]

Set the gap on the little stop to 15 thou with the arm held back with your hand. And slacken the stop nuts clear. Did you swop EVERYTHING over from the old engine - including flywheel/slave cylinder/wok cover??

[beansontoast]

done exactly that. and yes everything has come straight of old engine

[bmcecosse]

We often found we had to put a bend in the operating arm...... does the slave cylinder appear to be reaching end of stroke? Other option is to extend the rod going into the slave - but a 'bend' is easier!

[dave-88_123]

have you swapped the clutch release bearings over as there is a difference in thickness i found this out after lots of head scratching lol

[beansontoast]

ive bent the arm a bit already and yes the piston in the slave is pushing right up against the circlip at the end.

as for different thickness release bearings i never new they cam different sizes. As it was working when swaped from old unit i cant see why id need thicker one but im out of ideas so look into that one defiantly

[Cooperman]

Read and check the following:

CLUTCH DRAG

Clutch drag or failure to disengage is not an uncommon problem with the Mini.
There are several possible causes as follows:
A. HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
1. Wear in the pedal spindle or failure of the pedal to master cylinder clevis pin.
2. Failure of seals in the clutch master cylinder.
3. ‘Ballooning’ of flexible hose due to internal hose degradation or damage
4. Air in system due to inadequate bleeding
5. Failure of slave cylinder seals

B. MECHANICAL SYSTEM – WITHDRAWAL MECHANISM
1. Wear in top clevis pin
2. Wear in lower clevis pin
3. Bent arm
4. Worn or broken ball at lower end of arm where it engages into plunger.
5. Wear in plunger ball seat.
6. Incorrect setting of overthrow stop nuts
7. Incorrect setting of adjusting screw
8. Corrosion between plunger and clutch cover due to lack of lubrication.
9. Thrust bearing failure – accompanied by a lot of noise.

C. THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
1. Failure of clutch diaphragm spring due to fatigue or distortion
2. Centre plate hub not sliding on primary gear splines.
3. Clutch plate surface de-laminating or breaking up
4. Distorted clutch plate.
5. I fitted, clutch plate shock springs broken and causing a ‘jam’.
6. Primary gear not rotating freely on crankshaft due to either i) Insufficient primary gear end float, ii) Primary gear bushes seizing on crankshaft, or iii) Primary gear bushes breaking up

[beansontoast]

well since fitting a new clutch kit now when you lever arm out to operate cltch manualy you can get gears then start to let arm back in it starts to take up drive but theres not enough hydrulic pressure to push arm out. Everything hydrulic is new so dont quite know where to start but getting somewhere now