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Donald - 93 Cooper,fast Road,full Resto


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#46 cityspeed

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 10:22 PM

Big rusty patch, using the last of a bottle of Krust, before switching to food grade phosphoric acid
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Getting in the seams, going to need a few more repairs to heelboard + floor by the looks of it, battery box looks like a keeper so that's good news
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Onto rear subframe jig (so I can start heelboard end repairs),
Took a grinder to my rusty original, as it was fit for tip
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#47 cityspeed

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Posted 26 January 2017 - 07:02 PM

More bracing needed for Toeboard, stops me stressing out about it!
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Found more rust on crossmember than expected
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#48 cityspeed

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 06:17 PM

Made this bit, as the front floorpan panel I have does not have a correct length flute , this should make it match the one on other side of exhaust tunnel.
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Out with the old doorstep
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Relatively happy, edges are not as profiled as well as original and needed chopping a bit to fit, it would have been harder/ messy if you used the corners
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#49 cityspeed

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 08:38 AM

Made the access for heelboard repairs
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#50 pete l

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 09:18 AM

Hi,

 

just one thing, from experience, get rid of the KURUST, it is pants, does not work for long and rust will start spreading under your paint within six months. Which not what you want after doing all this work.

 

Get a rust REMOVER, like deox gel, rust convertors are useless. 

 

Pete.



#51 cityspeed

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 01:32 PM

Cheers for the heads up Pete,
I agree completely it's poor stuff I find its a bit weak, I supose as they sell rust paint it pays for them to sell a water'd down product.
Everything paintwork wise so far will be coming back off again for the epoxy primer , before that goes on I'm re-doing all the treated spots with phosphoric acid as it tends to be the main component in these rust products. Ive be been using it in cavity sections and am having good results literally fizzes it off if you use it strong.
I have seen good things about the deox gel, I will need a bit for vertical surfaces as the gel helps it stick however you are still left with the same deposit of black phosphate after the process which needs to be removed which is the same with the phosphoric acid.
Cheers, J

Edited by cityspeed, 03 February 2017 - 05:52 PM.


#52 cityspeed

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Posted 05 February 2017 - 08:06 PM

First patch of the day,
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Started clamping up, first time using the skin pins
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Closing panel and heelboard repair trial 1
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Subframe test fit
I welded these bits of box on beforehand so I have reference points
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Need to trim my repair down, but looks like it will work so started dismantling it all so I can adjust a few pieces
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Cleaned off the e coat from the closing panel, coated it in weld through primer so should save me some time tomorrow, started on heelboard prep but called it a day when I PUNCHED MYSELF IN THE FACE ! , with the skin pin pliers..... Was inside shell with no space must have been tired as I didn't react when I removed a stubborn pin. Starting early tomorrow morning not going to let the mini beat me up! :(
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Edited by cityspeed, 07 February 2017 - 04:07 PM.


#53 cityspeed

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Posted 07 February 2017 - 04:33 PM

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Not to happy with welding, ran into a problem with the welder not enjoying the slower wire speed,
Just ordered a new liner so am waiting for that now before I can continue with inner sill and flitch repair
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Door test number one , might start counting :)
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Edited by cityspeed, 07 February 2017 - 04:41 PM.


#54 cityspeed

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Posted 21 March 2017 - 08:47 AM

Built myself a welding trolley out of some scrap, have been struggling to reach some parts so made it quite tall,
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Managed to kill my dremel dressing some welds around heelboard, but got it replaced under warranty in less than a week really good service, will try to look after it ;)
+Just about to order a new air compressor so I can spray.

Edited by cityspeed, 21 March 2017 - 08:52 AM.





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