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Camshaft And Distributor Removal


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#1 jameslearwood

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 08:32 PM

went through firefoxs stupid dumb question post but need a little bit more help.

block is seperate from transmission. everything is removed except distributor, camshaft and flywheel pulley.

struggling to put haynes guide into what im looking at.

haven't removed the c-washer. which part do i remove first?

the pulley has a bolt larger than 30mm how do people remove this and how do you stop the camshaft turning to remove it?

distributor cant see how this is secured haynes says to screw in a bolt to pull it out??

could you break it down into simple descriptive terms please

cheers

#2 79Clubman

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 08:37 PM

@jameslearwood

Is the crank still in?

#3 jameslearwood

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 08:49 PM

sorry yeah the cranks still in?

#4 79Clubman

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 09:07 PM

Right... for the clutch bolt, fanbelt bolt and camshaft nut (the last two are the same size), you'll need to find the right size sockets- they're imperial, generally available in 3/4" socket, not 1/2"- can't remember exact sizes.

To remove the cam, it's easier to leave the chain on, but assuming you've taken it off, rotate the cam until you can see the cam retaining plate bolts (7/16") through the pulley cutouts. Remove these (three in total), then (carefully!) pull the entire cam assembly out. Further dis-assembly can then be done on the bench.

To remove the fanbelt pulley, lock the crank in position (Haynes says screwdriver into the starter gear ring, or wooden hammer handle in the block, but I prefer and old bigend bearing shell in the starter gear ring, put in where the starter would go, ends in two gear ring teeth), punch lockwasher back, remove bolt. Pulley should come off easily, if you're unlucky, you may need a puller.

To remove the clutch assembly, leave the crank locked in postion, remove the circlip, remove the thrust bearing plate, punch lockwasher back, remove the bolt (very tight, may need assistance), use a puller to remove the entire clutch assembly. Refer to Haynes if it's very tight.

To remove the dizzy, loosen the pinchbolt (7/16") and withdraw entire dizzy. Remove the two 7/16" bolts holding the pinch clamp and remove the same. Remove the single 7/16" bolt holding the base and remove the same (it has an o-ring on it, so expect some resistance). Now look inside the hole- you'll see some that looks like the bottom of a valve, with a threaded hole in the centre: screw a stud or suitable bolt into the hole and withdraw while twisting (to the right, from memory).

Clear enough?

#5 jameslearwood

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 10:18 PM

the whole flywheel and clutch has already been removed with the block seperated from the transmission.

i need to remove the fanbelt pulley first? where can you get a large enough socket from?

Thank you for your help the dizzy removal makes sense.

#6 79Clubman

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 10:28 PM

@jameslearwood

I'm a tad confused regarding the state your engine's in, but WTH. If the crank's still in with the fanbelt pulley on, no, you don't need to remove the pulley to get the crank out. Simply maark all the bigends and mains, remove the same and lift the crank out. On the other hand, removing it (locking the crank with a hammer handle (wooden) against the block would be the easiest.

As regards sockets, I can't help you because I'm in a different country- try an auto supply store (unlikely) or an engineering supply/tool shop (likely).

Cheers

#7 Cooperman

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 10:43 PM

I'm completely confused. You can't access the end of the cam or the timing gears with the front (fanbelt?) pulley on as the timing cover needs to be removed and to remove this the front pulley must be off the crank end.
Then there is mention of the 'flywheel pulley'. What is that? The flywheel has no pulley, it has the clutch attached and is bolted to the end of the crankshaft.
The 'C' washer sits inside the flywheel and holds the primary gear in place which is why the pistons should all be at mid-stroke when pulling the flywheel in order to prevent the C washer from dropping down and jamming the flywheel.
You can buy sockets on line from 'Abbey Power Tools' (just ordered a couple myself).

#8 79Clubman

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:00 PM

@Cooperman

No disrespect to @jameslearwood, but I'm glad to see that someone else was completely confused...lol.

#9 jameslearwood

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:04 PM

http://s961.photobuc...lulu/stripdown/

thats what i'm looking at.

so where is this c washer that i dont want to fall out?

cheers

#10 jameslearwood

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:12 PM

sorry im confused myself, its the fanbelt pulley i am on about. how can i jam the crank to loosing this bolt if i've already stripped it down

i can do the mechanic side of things just not actual explain it or get the names right could do with a dummies guide with pictures and description of each part lol

#11 cooperrodeo

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:13 PM

The C washer falling down is no longer a problem to you as you have already taken everything apart and exposed it successfully - possibly more by luck than judgement. The C washer is that thing on the crank just this side of the primary gear splines in your foto.

#12 79Clubman

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:14 PM

@jameslearwood

Photo 2- clutch end. The idler gear, at the closer end, has splines and then an end washer. The whole assembly is held on by the c-clip that slots into the grooves in the crankshaft after the end washer.

Cheers

#13 cooperrodeo

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:15 PM

Stick a block of wood in the way to stop the crank from rotating.

#14 79Clubman

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:22 PM

@jameslearwood

OK- assuming the photo's show the current state of play, you have the fanbelt pulley (aka harmonic balancer), the timing chain cover (and internals) still in place.

To jam the crank, lay the block on it's side, slide the wooden handle of a hammer between the crank and the side of the block. Then rotate the crank in the direction the blot will be undone, until the crank jams via the wood to the block. Proceed to undo the bolt and remove the pulley.

Leaving the crank jammed, remove the timing chain cover. Remove the cam sprocket nut and washer. Grab both sprockets and pull them, plus the chain, off as one.

Cheers

#15 jameslearwood

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:28 PM

I've always had a bit of luck :D

Right thats great i sort of understand it now thanks for your help.
cooperman looking on abbey tools dont suppose you can tell me which socket i need for that bolt.
never get the whole billion different bolt types




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