12 replies to this topic

[Eddy029]

Ok so I've got some Wipac spotlights on the front of my Mini now, was fairly straightforward using the Ring wiring kit from Halfords, anyway the only problem I had was the main beam supply, the blue/white wire behind the grill was dead, no power going down there at all. So I had to tap into the main clump of wires next to the yellow relays on the left hand side of the engine bay. I found 2 blue/white wires, so hooked one up and tried it, worked great. However when I have the headlights on and I want to switch to main beam, the spotlights come on but won't go off, almost as if the relay was sticking. They go out as soon as I switch from headlights to sidelights only, but when I go back to headlights and select main beam they become stuck on again. Anyone know where I've gone wrong?

[Bungle]

yes, you tried to tackle a potentially dangerous aspect of your mini with no technical or practical experience

do you also make your own fuel pipes out of garden vegetables and reline your brakes using bread and butter ?

the wiring on your car is as dangerous as the fuel system and brakes do not just fiddle with it and have a go, get this wrong and your mini will be nothing more that a smouldering mess on the floor

now quickly disconnect your bodges so far and get someone that knows what they are doing to do the job or use this forum and read up on what you are meant to be doing and only start when you are 100% happy in your knowledge and skills

[lrostoke]

Sounds like a relay problem, but odd it goes when you switch to sidelights.

Just to be sure though on the relay

Pin 30 comes from your battery 12v feed (solenoid good place to take this) I'm presuming with it being a kit it came with fuse etc

Pin 87 goes off to your spot lights

The pins can be reversed for the above as long as either of those 2 is used for power in and out and vice-versa


Pin 86 comes from the blue/white wire high beam circuit

Pin 85 goes to ground, either black wire in loom or fixed direct to shell of car.

again these can be reversed, its the energising side of the relay

Edited by lrostoke, 15 December 2011 - 05:18 PM.

[1984mini25]

anyway the only problem I had was the main beam supply, the blue/white wire behind the grill was dead, no power going down there at all. So I had to tap into the main clump of wires next to the yellow relays on the left hand side of the engine bay. I found 2 blue/white wires, so hooked one up and tried it, worked great. However when I have the headlights on and I want to switch to main beam, the spotlights come on but won't go off...... Anyone know where I've gone wrong?

So, your standard full beams don't work? So instead you have dangerously bodged a supply from somewhere else.

[lrostoke]

He doesn't say his full beams don't work ??

And the blue/white will still be high beam circuit so how is it a bodge, my understanding is he's cut into the main loom bundle that runs down to the front of the car.

[Eddy029]

To clear things up: Main beam works perfectly. It has NOT been bodged together, all I have done is take a supply from ONE of the blue/white wires for the relay. All connections are insulated and crimped, not just twisted together and held with insulation tape which is what you seem to be insinuating. I looked on this forum and researched in great depth as to which wires to use so I didn't end up with a smoldering Mini shell. Like I have already said, I tried the blue/white wire that was pictured in a topic on here behind the grill and it was dead. I tested it with a Multimeter and there was no power showing, so I thought I'd trace the wiring back and try and find somewhere else to get a supply. How is this a bodge? I don't like how people suddenly jump to conclusions...

Anyway, I've just been to check that the relays all wired up properly and it is, the main thing I want to know at the moment is why there's 2 blue/white wires? Is one for main beam when you flick the stalk forward and the other for when you flick it back and want them on all the time?

[1984mini25]

anyway the only problem I had was the main beam supply, the blue/white wire behind the grill was dead, no power going down there at all.

Read above

[lrostoke]

what years the car ??

maybe its been rewired , possible a break in the original blue/white and somebody ran a new one down.

[Eddy029]

anyway the only problem I had was the main beam supply, the blue/white wire behind the grill was dead, no power going down there at all.

Read above

And I said, my main beam is still working perfectly. I still fail to see what is wrong with snipping a wire and taking a feed out for a relay, ensuring the new connection is fully insulated? If I had bodged it, I would have snipped the wire, taken a feed and just wired it straight up the the spotlights without using a relay. I thought I was doing the right thing, obviously not.

what years the car ??

maybe its been rewired , possible a break in the original blue/white and somebody ran a new one down.

Its a 1994 Cooper, and I'm starting to think it might have a break somewhere on that wire, it did have some work done on the wings and front end so maybe a wire was accidentally nipped or something...

[lrostoke]

Blue/whites should be high beam circuit, suprised on a 1994 there isn't already wiring in place for spot lights. I know on my brothers old 1993 Cooper is had the wiring there as standard. Or are these additional ones ??

[Eddy029]

Blue/whites should be high beam circuit, suprised on a 1994 there isn't already wiring in place for spot lights. I know on my brothers old 1993 Cooper is had the wiring there as standard. Or are these additional ones ??

Well I looked on here and saw that there was a bullet connector on the end of a wire behind the grille, had a look and thought 'Great, I can use that, this should be simple.' But there's no power going down it, so I thought I would try and tap in a bit further up the loom. I have added these spotlights myself, it didn't have any when I bought it and I don't think its had any from new as there were no holes for the mounting brackets. I assume the bullet connector was the original wire for the optional spotlights.

[lrostoke]

seeing as you have a multimeter I'd run the following test

The blue/white you tapped into. connect the meter to it see if it goes on and off when you select high beam.

If it does then should be no problem using that as the switching feed for your relay

Where are you taking the main 12v feed from

where are you earthing the relay ??

[Eddy029]

seeing as you have a multimeter I'd run the following test

The blue/white you tapped into. connect the meter to it see if it goes on and off when you select high beam.

If it does then should be no problem using that as the switching feed for your relay

Where are you taking the main 12v feed from

where are you earthing the relay ??

Cheers, I'll do that test tomorrow when I have time.

Main 12v feed is taken straight from the battery, and yes it is fused.

Its earthed to the bracket where the immobiliser is, well I think its the immobiliser.