7 replies to this topic

[Magic jason]

well its time to lift the engine out but i still need to disconnect the drive shafts!

Ive only had experience with The old UV joints and dont know what to look out for and expect!
Also how should i do it? should i take of the hub and pull it out or is there a simpler way?

Cheers!

[Carlzilla]

Right, disconnect everything from the engine, undo the engine mounts, gear linkage, steadies etc.
Dont bother undoing the ball joints just yet, Cut the metal ties or cable ties of the joint boots, lift the engine up 2" (undo the speedo cable now, its much easier) and move the engine to the left and twist it a bit so the right hand pot joint separates, then the same with the other one.
If youre struggling then split the top ball joints, but if you can do it without it saves a fair bit of hassle!
Oh and it makes life much easier if you take off the carb and drop the radiator off.
Good luck!

Edited by Carlzilla, 31 December 2011 - 09:30 PM.

[Magic jason]

ok thanks, i'll give that a go!

[tiger99]

If you can get hold of tool 18G1243, extract the drive shafts from the pot joints in situ, as per the official Rover manual. No mess, and no need to drain oil. The pots remain complete, and still in the diff.

[Carlzilla]

The one half of the joint remains in the diff, as per my post. You don't need any type of tool for simply sliding the pot joint apart, and there's certainly no oil leakage from doing so.Apart from re-cable tying the boots back on, its far less effort to do that than split a joint from the shaft.There's more than one way to skin a cat.

Edited by Carlzilla, 01 January 2012 - 02:36 PM.

[Magic jason]

At Carlzilla

Worked a treat! maybe too well...

Edited by Magic jason, 01 January 2012 - 03:50 PM.

[Carlzilla]

Haha, good to hear!

[tiger99]

Yes, you can split the pot joints, and unless great care is taken not to, it tends to happen anyway. It is an acceptable way to do the job, but messy, and you need to clean and regrease them afterwards. You only spill oil if you extract the pots from the diff, which is another way of doing the job.

18G 1243 to extract the shafts from the pots, 18G 1240 to extract the pot joint from the diff, 18G 1251 to fit the rubber boot, 18G 1099 to fit the new steel band around the boot, and many of the other special tools are not actually essential, but if you can borrow them they do save a bit of time. If not, there are other methods, as you say.

My point is simply that in being aware of the possibilities, and depending on what tools we can get hold of, we can sometimes make decisions which will save us time and effort. Or not, if we can't get hold of the tools.

But it is fair to say thet we don't need to follow all the procedures in the manual either, for example it is quite practicable to lift the engine and box out from the top, rather than dropping the subframe. Or, you can split the engine and box in situ, change the clutch without lifting the engine, and even, although very fiddly, change the final drive ratio (both gears) without lifting the engine. I did that once so I know, but it is definitely not the best way!

I simply think that it is worth knowing all the options before starting the job.