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Not Charging! No Red Light On Dash?


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#1 ryan22_lgm

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Posted 10 January 2012 - 12:27 AM

Right recently followed this guide http://www.theminifo...howtopic=115376
to convert from my 2 clock set up. Everything is working fine but the battery is not being charged resulting in the car not starting :(. The ignition warning light and oil light do not come on when the ignition is turned on could this be the reason?. do they need to be earthed or wired to the positive ignition live. This is the brown with yellow wire for the ignition lamp and the white and brown wire for the oil pressure light. Thanks for your help.

#2 ministar

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Posted 10 January 2012 - 12:36 AM

Usually if the voltage goes below 10v, the oil light and warning do not work. That is to do with the voltage regulator. The more I think about this I don't have an answer. Maybe look at charging unit itself ie. the alternator. The black 3 pin connect is very prone to rusting (including connecting wires), and for the sake of a few quid at you local auto electric store, it might be worth ruling out? Sorry I can't be of more help.

#3 Ethel

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Posted 10 January 2012 - 12:40 AM

The ignition bulb is in the 12v supply to the alternator. It needs an "exciter" live feed to energise it until it produces current - the bulb goes out when the battery voltage, on one side, and the alternator voltage, on the other, are equal.

The oil light just runs to earth at the pressure switch.

I didn't follow the link, but if you've converted to centre instruments the bulb holders need to be insulated, the rest (except the turn signal flasher) are metal and earth through speedo casing.

#4 dklawson

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Posted 10 January 2012 - 12:40 AM

Sorry, since I am not familiar with the conversion in the link all I can offer is general guidance/comments.

Yes, the charge warning light needs to work if the alternator is to charge the battery. Both the oil and charge warning lamps should get power from the ignition switch when the key is in the run position. The oil light's other wire goes to the switch where it reaches earth when pressure is low. The ignition lamp is connected to the small terminal on the alternator and gets its earth through the alternator field coils.

#5 ryan22_lgm

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Posted 10 January 2012 - 12:42 AM

thanks for the quick reply mate i have tried it with a different alternator and took the plug that goes into the alternator apart and tightened all the crimps up. This is the diagram and i think the ign and oil have to be conected to the white wire which is positive switiched live :s
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#6 ryan22_lgm

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Posted 10 January 2012 - 12:43 AM

Right thanks guys this is were i have gone wrong! i have earthed the ignition light and oil pressure light !

#7 loobylooby

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 09:09 PM

ive recently built my own dash, using leds for ign light n oil light and earted the otherside like you! did you follow that diagram to put it back right? as mine dont light up anymore when i turn the key :)

#8 Dan

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 09:16 PM

An LED will work fine for the oil pressure lamp and can be made to work for the no-charge lamp also, although for that one you can't just whack in an LED on its own. You need to add some other components, both to protect the LED and to make the alternator see the load of the original 2.2 watt filament bulb that it requires.

#9 loobylooby

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 09:29 PM

what would i needto do dan?at themmin ive basicly got the ign cable going to to led then down to earth, does this need to be a switched live to the led then down to the altenator? with other componants involved?

#10 Dan

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 09:34 PM

Yes the LED should be supplied positive with an ignition switched live (as should the oil pressure lamp, the negative side of that LED goes to the oil pressure switch). Then there needs to be a resistor and blocking diode in parallel with the LED, and a second resistance in series with that assembly or something like that. I can't remember the exact specs and layout right now. I can look it up tomorrow, or if Doug (DKLawson) happens to look in here I'm sure he'll know. You might find there are already threads where Doug or I describe this in detail if you search.

#11 loobylooby

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 09:40 PM

so the oil led has 12v switched to pos, back out of neg to the oil pressure switch, then the ign led has 12v switched to pos and back out to the altenator with restistors in the circuits to change the voltage to same as the original one? il try find him :) thanks

#12 loobylooby

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 10:06 PM

cant find any threads dan, any more advice?:/...

#13 Dan

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 10:11 PM

Can't get to the info right now, I'll see what I can dig up tomorrow. Doug is in the US so he might well be on later than you or I.

#14 loobylooby

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 10:14 PM

thanks for the help if you could get back to me ide appreciate it because i need to get car built back up and this is stoping ma haha, have a basic idea of what needs doing but wasnt aware of the resistors...

#15 dklawson

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 02:57 AM

PM sent.




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