Hi all,
I'm having a nightmare with my immobiliser. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't (turn the ignition on that is). I live in Farnham, Surrey but can't seem to get anyone to have a look that knows anything about mini's. I really don't want to let the wife out in it as I had to collect her on Friday night when she couldn't get it started.....
If I take the battery out of the fob, replace then hit the lock button eight times the LED flashes really fast, then and not always I can then push the 'open' button, the light goes out and I can start it but when I try agian in about 30mins it doesn't seem to work all the time.
Any help would be great as I'm running out of ideas - why did they fit this crappy alarm that is linked to the ECU to a top car!!!

Urgent Help Please...my Lucas 5As Immobilser
Started by
Snotpot
, Jan 20 2012 07:49 PM
8 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 20 January 2012 - 07:49 PM
#2
Posted 20 January 2012 - 10:07 PM
Hey,
It's on there to stop someone nicking your top car
The way you are replacing the battery and resyncing it is correct. When you say it works and then doesn't after 30 mins, are you real arming it again or just leaving it? If it's the latter, then it's normal for the immobiliser to rearm itself, although the alarm won't.
If you've rearmed it via the button and it won't disarm, could it be the fob causing the issue? I have two for my MPi, and one doesn't work too well. I have to stand really near to the car to get it to disarm. Oddly, the arm button seems to have a better range than the disarm button. The alarm ECU is on the bulkhead right in the middle of the windscreen. Have you tried putting the fob right by there on the scuttle, or sitting in the car and arming/unarming?
Hopefully that makes some sense, it's been a long day!
It's on there to stop someone nicking your top car

The way you are replacing the battery and resyncing it is correct. When you say it works and then doesn't after 30 mins, are you real arming it again or just leaving it? If it's the latter, then it's normal for the immobiliser to rearm itself, although the alarm won't.
If you've rearmed it via the button and it won't disarm, could it be the fob causing the issue? I have two for my MPi, and one doesn't work too well. I have to stand really near to the car to get it to disarm. Oddly, the arm button seems to have a better range than the disarm button. The alarm ECU is on the bulkhead right in the middle of the windscreen. Have you tried putting the fob right by there on the scuttle, or sitting in the car and arming/unarming?
Hopefully that makes some sense, it's been a long day!
#3
Guest_minidizzy_*
Posted 21 January 2012 - 12:38 AM
I answered a similar question a few days ago. If its taking a long time to turn off the immobiliser it may be because the fob is worn. A new battery is not enough. I had this problem with one of my fobs and had it reconditioned so it now works perfectly. Have a look at:
www.remotekey.co.uk/key-fob-reconditioning
www.remotekey.co.uk/key-fob-reconditioning
#4
Posted 21 January 2012 - 08:07 PM
Thanks for the replies.
I think the later is probably correct although I didn't want to go down the route of sending my ECU off to get a new fob as I wasn't sure if I would be chucking money away if it's mor serious.
Looks like this is my only option although someone on ebay has an ECU from a SPI that says it works without the alarm so I could just fit this and remove the immobiliser. Is this a bad idea?
Thanks again
I think the later is probably correct although I didn't want to go down the route of sending my ECU off to get a new fob as I wasn't sure if I would be chucking money away if it's mor serious.
Looks like this is my only option although someone on ebay has an ECU from a SPI that says it works without the alarm so I could just fit this and remove the immobiliser. Is this a bad idea?
Thanks again
#5
Posted 21 January 2012 - 08:09 PM
Ask for the MNE code to be sure
#6
Posted 21 January 2012 - 08:31 PM
Thanks. I assume that's the ECU code?
#7
Guest_minidizzy_*
Posted 22 January 2012 - 01:00 AM
I didn't have to send the ECU to Remote Key Ltd when I had my fob reconditioned. You should not need to get a new fob if the original is still partially working. It still retains its code and only needs reconditioning.
ECUs (engine and immobiliser) get too easily blamed for problems when they are usually not at fault. I would not want to lose my immobiliser.
Remote Key Ltd has a "no repair - no charge" policy.
ECUs (engine and immobiliser) get too easily blamed for problems when they are usually not at fault. I would not want to lose my immobiliser.
Remote Key Ltd has a "no repair - no charge" policy.
#8
Posted 24 January 2012 - 09:14 PM
If I am to swap over ECU's from a SPI that does not have an immobilser linked in is it just the MNE number that has to match as my ECU has further numbers,
MNE101170 2505 4047
Do they all have to match?
Thanks again
MNE101170 2505 4047
Do they all have to match?
Thanks again
#9
Posted 24 January 2012 - 09:33 PM
Dont quote me on this but i think the ECU's that start with MNE1010 dont need a matching 3AS/5AS unit (or even one at all) but those with MNE 1011 need to have a paired 3AS/5AS unit....
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