19 replies to this topic

[frasermini]

Hi,
New to the idea of turbocharging, but the concept has been at the back of my mind for a while

Car will be used on a regular basis (Most days in summer hopefully, weather and reliability permitting!)

I have a 1275 A+ engine, would it be suitable as standard if it turns out to be in good condition, or would I require a turbo crank, cast dished pistons and stronger con-rods?

I presume the gearbox would be ok? The idea of a straight cut 5 speed seems too noisy and expensive.

So Far thinking:
HIF 44 Carb?
GT1752 Turbo
Mirage manifold (Although apparently they do not manufacture a downpipe for the GT17)
Turbo Minis Fast Road Head (don't know how they are in terms of quality and value for money?)
Bleed valve (Would I be correct in thinking this allows changing of the boost psi at the twist of a knob or am i being an idiot?)

Then beyond that I don't know, any thoughts, opinions or ideas would be much appreciated.

[frasermini]

Also, would I be right in thinking that this has the actuator attached to it in the pictures and is therefore included in the sale?

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3362abf4d3

[jakejakejake1]

How much power are you aiming to achieve, as this will help answer a lot of your questions regarding how strong components will have to be.

[mad mk1]

And how much cash you have to play with.

[frasermini]

Power is a tough question, because it does not 100% correlate that 150bhp will give you a certain top speed or quarter mile time. But I guess 150 bhp would be my estimate. I have about 1500 to spend, i have the engine but I need to buy and x-pin diff, disc brakes and better suspension in that price bracket. Or am I being ridiculous to consider I could turbo it for that money?

[t@z]

you can do for 1500 at a squeeze but i'd say not with buying x-pin, sus and brakes etc.

headwork £80-150 (depending on condition) / new head £300-£400
mirage £350
carb and plenuim £100+ (then consider a rebuild)
turbo £100-£200 (i know you can pick them up for £289 on ebay new i think)
downpipe fab £100-£200
mpi/spi tank £50-£70
turbo dizzy £???/ Megajolt £300
s/c drop gears £240?
boost gauge £50
fuel regualtor £40-£50

then you got fuel lines, addtional wiring, assuming you have a decent engine that requires no work and you can get compression low enough to get the boost you want.

obvioulsy i dont know prices but just something that may help you. as a lot of people say your better off aiming for a bhp figure and then seeing if your budget and engine can take it. if not then you need to compromise somewhere.

also really does depend on your starting point too. but there are always extra costs and i promise you there always are :)

Edited by t@z, 23 January 2012 - 01:07 PM.

[frasermini]

Thanks, TZ, all sounds fairly reasonable to me, was going on holiday this year but a lot of my friends have backed out so it now appears I have an extra £800 to play with which should make life a fair bit easier. Got my mind set on a new GT17 turbo unit as I've heard good things about the consistency throughout the rev range on these.
Out of interest, whats the safe rev limit on a standard 1275 A+ engine, around 6000rpm to avoid excessive wear i'd guess?
Fraser.

[t@z]

really does depend on the engine spec and how well its balanced and been put together. for example i loaded up a map on my MJ the other day and its limiter was set too 7.5k (1293 @16psi); that isnt mine but that really is like a opened question with no answer in my books.

but if you want it to last 4k is a safe bet :) (just kidding ofc)

[frasermini]

So it would last at 6k then or could you safely move then limit up to 6500 with standard components? My mini doesnt have a rev counter you see

[t@z]

i would think theres also the turbos compressor map to consider as well and peak power as to where you want to rev it too. ie there no point in having an engine that will rev to 9k if your turbos all out of puff by 7k.

so it would be safe to assume that the limit would be set when you get it rr'd. but there are a lot of factors to consider in my mind.

i've fixed mine to like 6k on my MJ at the moment until i get it rr'd, but mines a road fun car so i will be setting mine to safe limits too....whatever they will be.

if your really worried about wear etc and things breaking i'd just use your money and build a nice 1293, with a torquey cam and MJ on an SU or save for the SC single throttle body injection thing.

Not saying that turbos are high maint as its all about where you started from (engine) and how you drive but if you are worried.

[frasermini]

Would SC drop gears make the car hard to drive, like a crash gearbox? I presume not as i would still have the synchro on all the gears? Or am I wrong here? My understanding is perhaps not as good as it should be haha

[George929]

Would SC drop gears make the car hard to drive, like a crash gearbox? I presume not as i would still have the synchro on all the gears? Or am I wrong here? My understanding is perhaps not as good as it should be haha

no it wouldnt change what the car is like to drive. there stronger and allot lot louder

[t@z]

sorry some confusion, by SC i didnt mean straight cut i meant these guys and this i think http://www.twinkam.c...%3DSC220.001%26

just as an alternative im saying. my 1293 pre turbo and torquey cam was a blast and reliable. just think that if you want a turbo you need to be warey that things may go wrong at the the start where as NA they prob wont.

Edited by t@z, 23 January 2012 - 11:05 PM.

[frasermini]

I appreciated that you didn't mean that, my computer won't let me look at twinkam.com as it blocked for some reason, i was refering to Straight Cut, just a bit out of context :s

[frasermini]

So, hypothetically, what would make the best fast road engine for £2000? I've got a 1275 A+ and a kent 286 cam laying around somewhere too?