Disconnect the radiator and flush it out, then fill it with new coolant. You can also disconnect the bottom hose and just let the old out, and flush it through with some water, before refilling with antifreeze and water.
Major Problem! Hole In The Engine!
Started by
Masoa010
, Feb 07 2012 09:52 AM
36 replies to this topic
#31
Posted 07 February 2012 - 02:39 PM
#32
Posted 07 February 2012 - 05:59 PM
You have probably been very lucky.
Fit the new core plugs, fill with new anti-freeze mixture and run the engine to check for leaks.
I once borrowed an almost new Triumph Spitfire from a real good friend and fellow rally-person when my 998 Cooper was having some rally prep done and I parked it outside overnight on a very cold night. Then I drove it the next day and the temp gauge was slow to go up. However, the engine suddenly seized. The block had frozen and a core plug had come out releasing all the water.
There was a hell of a row with the Triumph dealers who had to fit a complete new engine under warranty as the car had been delivered with no anti-freeze. It later transpired that the car reached the dealer with a damaged radiator and the dealer changed it but failed to add anti-freeze.
Fit the new core plugs, fill with new anti-freeze mixture and run the engine to check for leaks.
I once borrowed an almost new Triumph Spitfire from a real good friend and fellow rally-person when my 998 Cooper was having some rally prep done and I parked it outside overnight on a very cold night. Then I drove it the next day and the temp gauge was slow to go up. However, the engine suddenly seized. The block had frozen and a core plug had come out releasing all the water.
There was a hell of a row with the Triumph dealers who had to fit a complete new engine under warranty as the car had been delivered with no anti-freeze. It later transpired that the car reached the dealer with a damaged radiator and the dealer changed it but failed to add anti-freeze.
#33
Posted 10 February 2012 - 03:33 PM
whats the best thing to use to hit the new ones in, can't find anything to use because of the metal work in the way ???
#34
Posted 10 February 2012 - 04:20 PM
You do need to remove the rad grille, the alternator and anything else in front of the core plugs (distributor, etc).
The you tap them in around the edges of the new plugs with a small hammer to get them started. A little sealant helps and the block should have been cleaned up with some emory around the edges of the holes. To finally fit them snugly I use a large socket on a 10" socket bar which just sits into the core plug lip and hit it squarely with a copper mallet until it sits with the edge of the lip flush with the block.
The you tap them in around the edges of the new plugs with a small hammer to get them started. A little sealant helps and the block should have been cleaned up with some emory around the edges of the holes. To finally fit them snugly I use a large socket on a 10" socket bar which just sits into the core plug lip and hit it squarely with a copper mallet until it sits with the edge of the lip flush with the block.
#35
Posted 10 February 2012 - 04:54 PM
All done now,thanks for all your help
#36
Posted 10 February 2012 - 05:10 PM
Is it all running OK with no more leaks and plenty of anti-freeze in the cooling system?
#37
Posted 10 February 2012 - 05:19 PM
same thing happened to me, ball ache to change. you need to find something to punch it in with that is exactly the same diameter.
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