9 replies to this topic

[greensilver mini]

Hi the front subframe rear mounts are they easy to replace once the engine has been removed can I do one side a time? like undo old one remove and put new mount on?

Stuart

[Dan]

Yes, they are easy to replace at any time. Doesn't really make a difference if the engine is there or not.

[tiger99]

These mounts fail regularly. Why not replace them all with solid mounts, and get better handling? Youi do have to change all 6, never mix solid and rubber, but you will only ever need to do it once.

[Dan]

I would always advise anyone getting solid mounts for the front frame of a late car to reinforce the toe board. They aren't built the same as solid mounted cars and a lot of the time solid mounts will crack the toe board around them.

[Big_Adam]

As Dan says, solid mounts tend to be for early cars, race cars or cars slightly prepped for them, I've split a floor with regular rubber mounts so solid ones would have shot through the floor and done some real damage.

Which is why that area is now plated with 6mm of steel.

[Welshminiman]

Sorry to hijack this thread, I'm looking at mounting my front subframe with solid mounts mainly for use during the restoration of my van, but what I want to know is, how does the front of the front subframe attach to the shell?, I've not got the conventional tear drops (or pare drops as I've read elsewhere!) has anyone got a picture of it mounted I could use for reference?

Regards

Chris

[tiger99]

Well, with rubber mounts, the inner wings crack when the rear mounts fail, unless you notice fairly quickly.

Personally, I would strenghten the toeboard for two reasons, firstly so you can use solid mounts successfully, and secondly, because it is an area which caves in readily in frontal impacts, trapping the drivers feet. At least it used to on older, solid mounted cars, which TRRL were using in the 1980s to help develop crash test dummies. Often the dummy had trapped legs and had to be cut out.

I suspect that the toeboard may be less of an issue on rubber mounted cars because a fromt impact will rip the rubbers, and the subframe ends will probably be forced down, under the floor, instead of bending the toeboard inwards. Even so, having seen what I saw, when I get my next Mini, it will (after the almost inevitable rust repairs) get at least a 2 or 3 mm reinforcement on the lower region of the toeboard, the front edge of the floor, lower part of the flitch, and the inner sills, as far back as the crossmember, as I believe this to be the most vulnerable area in the average accident.

I have been thinking about this for a very long time.

[Cooperman]

It's always good to reinforce the toe-board when fitting solid mounts. I've seen several rubber mounted frames where the toe-board has split. I use 16 swg, 1.5 mm steel sheet and both plug- and seam-weld a good-sized sheet there.
There is no doubt that the earlier cars with solid mounted front frames do feel more positive to drive. The steering response is much better and both handling and road-holding are improved.
I think I did mention that the reason the manufacturers changed from solid to rubber mountings was to better address the target market for the Mini which changed from younger people to middle-aged ladies who liked a softer and quieter car and were not so concerned with the dynamic steering effect or the road-holding and handling.

[tiger99]

Yes, I think that was the reason. Fortunately some middle aged or even old men still prefer better handling!

[Cooperman]

Yes, I think that was the reason. Fortunately some middle aged or even old men still prefer better handling!

Like this old man . I take the point!!!!!