5 replies to this topic

[blackbelt1990]

allow allow,

I'm going to change my steering rack tomorrow but I'm tilting the subframe, rather than removing. Is there a guide to this anywhere? I've seen it done, so know it can be, but I've never had to do it on my own yet! ha

Thanks, Ryannn

[Turbo Nick]

it's a good 3 or 4 cup of tea job if it's your first one. most fiddly bit i find is getting the U bolts out and back in but that could just be my dick fingers.

watch out for your brake pipes cracking on the front subby depending on how much you lever the front subframe away from the body.

[chrisandsarah]

I've done this - but a couple of years ago.

You will most likely need:

• Track rod ends x 2
• Steering rack x 1
• Ball joint splitter x 1
• Some one to pass you cups of tea / beer

You will need to:

• Jack the car up and rest the front of the subby on wood blocks + chock rear wheels
• Remove road wheels
• Undo the nut on both track rod ends
• Inside the car undo and remove the small bolt at the bottom of the steering column you will need to remove the sheer bolt 1/2 way up the column aswell
• Pull CAREFULLY on the steering wheel to release it from the steering rack - it will resist you - and it will hit you in the face if you aren't careful
• Pull up the carpet in the upper part of the driver and passenger footwell there are 2 nuts each side, these connect to U bolts under the car that hold the rack steady (don't loose these nuts!!!)
• In the engine bay you need to remove the tower nuts these are the monster bolts next to the fusebox and the wiper motor
• At the front of the subframe, there are two bolts that will need undoing there are circular holes that reveal them (again dont loose these)
• From there the subframe should tilt just enough to allow you to carefully slide the old rack out and the new one in
• It may be that you need to give the track rods a little bit of heat to persuade them off
• Remember that the track rod ends define your tracking, so you will need to get the car retracked or count the turns on the old ones (not sure how to do that)

Just to be clear - I cannot remember how I supported the car, I THINK it was on blocks of wood. Can someone else back this up?

I may have missed something but I THINK that is what I did, like I said, a while since I did it last. - Though provided you have the correct tools it is a 3-4 cup job like Turbo Nick said!

[Surfbluegarage]

just a small adding really. if you have a standard exhaust/inlet remove the bottom bolt on the gearbox/diff flange bracket as when the engine tilts back it can pivot on the top exhaust clmap(which u may need to reseal again after)
tools:
3/4 or 9/16ths socket for track rod nuts depends what type u have
ball joint spliter
ratchet
1/2 socket and spanner maybe an extension for u clamp nuts and front tear drop mounts and rear mounts
1 5/16ths socket for tower bolts
7/16th spanners for pinch bolt on column
pry bars
plenty of tea and the best of luck. lol

if ive forgot owt its because i need a wee and jumping around like a fool sorry..weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!

[chrisandsarah]

just a small adding really. if you have a standard exhaust/inlet remove the bottom bolt on the gearbox/diff flange bracket as when the engine tilts back it can pivot on the top exhaust clmap(which u may need to reseal again after)......

Haha - forgot about the exhaust - mine had a wonky flange that was a little madam to reconnect any sense with that silly clamp. Reconnecting the exhaust was the hardest part of the job for me!

[Surfbluegarage]

not the only one matey.lol