
Waxoyl'ing Sills
#1
Posted 27 February 2012 - 10:37 AM
Thanks
#2
Posted 27 February 2012 - 10:40 AM
Leon
Edited by lil3on, 27 February 2012 - 10:41 AM.
#3
Posted 27 February 2012 - 10:52 AM

#4
Posted 27 February 2012 - 11:05 AM
#5
Posted 27 February 2012 - 02:25 PM
#6
Posted 27 February 2012 - 02:41 PM
#7
Posted 27 February 2012 - 04:25 PM


#8
Posted 27 February 2012 - 04:57 PM
See pic below, does this help??
Yeahh thanks a lot. How many holes do you reckon is needed in each section? I was thinking of 3 maybe for max
#9
Posted 27 February 2012 - 08:35 PM

Edited by ajpmsport, 27 February 2012 - 08:41 PM.
#10
Posted 27 February 2012 - 08:40 PM
If this comes out,i think the guys are trying to say the holes should be where the orange dots are.
http://i860.photobuc...t/0102-Copy.jpg
thats the one :)
#11
Posted 28 February 2012 - 10:25 AM
#12
Posted 28 February 2012 - 08:15 PM
cheers
Leon
#13
Posted 28 February 2012 - 08:34 PM
It is a lot easier to replace an outer sill, than to have to replace the outer, and part of the floor pan when it rots, as it will. The inner sill is part of the floor pan, and replacement involves a long butt weld, all the way from the toeboard to the heelboard. the outer sill only needs spot or plug welding, except at the front and rear corners, where a very small amount of seam welding is advisable.
And, please, when it does go rotten, as it surely will, with or without Waxoyl, don't even think about so-called inner sills which have a cutout to fit over the crossmember. They are positively dangerous as they leave a major structural weakness. If spotted, they should be an immediate MOT fail, as they are not a like for like replacement of the original structure, or a partial panel replacement, seam welded, both of which are allowed.
#14
Posted 28 February 2012 - 08:45 PM
#15
Posted 29 February 2012 - 12:56 AM
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