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Preping Inside Of Sills Before Welding Up


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#1 Pepys

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 10:16 AM

I am about to weld on a new outer sill. There are patches of pitted rust on the inner sill. What’s a good way to make it rust safe before boxing it in? There’s so much stuff out there I get brain fizzle.

Should I Kurust it and then oxide prime it and paint?

Should I get it back to bare metal and metal prep it and then prime and paint it?

Should I slap some por15 on?

Eeeeek!

Also, I have been away from the forum for a few years due to the family getting bigger. It’s nice to be back. :thumbsup:

#2 onefastmoke

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 10:30 AM

if its deep, pitted rust then you should cut it out and replace it. it seems a shame to go to the effort of welding new sills on whilst trapping rust between

#3 se_juggles

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 10:56 AM

As other guy said... my car is in the garage being sorted now and had been offered the Kurust treatment but it only keeps the rust at bay for a few years, I do believe its not a cure for rust... the garage even said it will last some years but the rust will slowly come back and mess up the new sills :)

#4 se_juggles

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 10:56 AM

Oh and welcome back :)

#5 DeanP

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 11:31 AM

I'm sure there will be plenty of ideas and all will probably get the same result. I like POR15, it's heat proof and welding will just discolour it, but the surface it's painted on needs to be pretty much bare metal and etched with POR metal ready. Obviously, this would be expensive, but I have a feeling it would last sometime, especially if a load of wax oil was heated, vapourised through a parafin gun and blasted through strategically drilled holes once welded and the car sprayed.

#6 sledgehammer

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 12:14 PM

Not eco friendly - but after everything welded / replaced , and water tight ,

I drill small holes in inner sill and spray engine oil into them with holes in the sides of the tube

and then cap them

I do this once every few years - the oil soaks into every crevice , water & oil don't co habit , so any rust left is dormant

Eco mentalists will hate this - but if it saves a shell then it is worth it

I used to do this on my old land rovers , on the outside of the chassis (esp around spring hangers and rear cross member)

#7 sonikk4

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 01:48 PM

I would cut it out and replace it. Nothing worse than seeing rust coming back under a new panel. Even though these treatments do help they will never truly stop it so the best route is to replace the afflicted area then thoroughly treat it.

I have cheated for the time being on project Paddy by removing surface rust, treating it then fitting new oversills however this is only for me to get a years use out of him before a full resto including brand new inner sills both sides.This is a luxury i can afford to do but if you intend to use the car all year round or rely on it for transport then i would sort it properly now.

#8 Pepys

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 05:03 PM

In other words, if there is rust I will need to sand it back to bare metal or better still, cut it out and replace. Anything else will simply let the rust creep back. Only use these rust killers and capsulators as a last resort where it isn't feasible to do something more thorough.

It's just that often on the forum you see photos where folks leave loads of rust. Are they just kidding themselves about the problems ahead or have they got a Harry Potter magic wand?

#9 DeanP

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 06:45 PM

or have they got a Harry Potter magic wand?


Don't you have one of those.... geeze man, how do you get on without one! :)

#10 Pepys

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 10:06 AM


or have they got a Harry Potter magic wand?


Don't you have one of those.... geeze man, how do you get on without one! :)




I do, but the Rust Fairy has some mighty powerful magika.




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