im going to be changing to an austin metro engine 1275 , but i was wondering what steadies i will need ? i have been looking at dsn ones the billet one in particular but don't know what ones i will need , top and bottom and i think i might put one on that go's to the thermostat
What Engine Steadies Will I Need ?
Started by
oliver122
, Mar 23 2012 09:54 AM
3 replies to this topic
#1
oliver122
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One Carb Or Two?
- Location: Stoke-on-Trent
Posted 23 March 2012 - 09:54 AM
#2
maccers
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Camshaft & Stage Two Head
- Location: Epsom
- Local Club: LSMOC
Posted 23 March 2012 - 10:31 AM
I am looking at this now too. I already have the standard one on clutch side of the engine that attaches to the block and mounts under the hydraulics, top steady I think its called!
I also, as standard have one on the sump plug side of the gearbox, that fixes to the front of the subframe, and thats all.
I am reomving engine for upgrade and hopefully re-installing with a supercharger, so will fit a lower mount to the gearbox that attaches on the radiator side, you need to make one hole on the rear leg of the front subframe. Also looking at the DSN thermostat one. There are different ones here, best to call them, they do ones pre 1990 and 1990 onwards where the engine was moved 10mm further forwards, I did not know this until I emailed them.
Have a look at MOSS and Sommerford web site, they detail the standard ones, and Sommerford have a really good page that shows them all and what years they were fitted or dropped and comments on them.
As a general rule I think the more staeadies you have the better, but also replace the rubbers or poly bushes on the steady bars you have, ie dont just add new ones without checking your existing ones.
As I am removing engine, I'll also look at solid subframe mounts, which I believe you can change with engine in place.
I also, as standard have one on the sump plug side of the gearbox, that fixes to the front of the subframe, and thats all.
I am reomving engine for upgrade and hopefully re-installing with a supercharger, so will fit a lower mount to the gearbox that attaches on the radiator side, you need to make one hole on the rear leg of the front subframe. Also looking at the DSN thermostat one. There are different ones here, best to call them, they do ones pre 1990 and 1990 onwards where the engine was moved 10mm further forwards, I did not know this until I emailed them.
Have a look at MOSS and Sommerford web site, they detail the standard ones, and Sommerford have a really good page that shows them all and what years they were fitted or dropped and comments on them.
As a general rule I think the more staeadies you have the better, but also replace the rubbers or poly bushes on the steady bars you have, ie dont just add new ones without checking your existing ones.
As I am removing engine, I'll also look at solid subframe mounts, which I believe you can change with engine in place.
#3
998dave
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998cc's Of Dave Goodness
- Name: Dave
- Location: Essex
Posted 23 March 2012 - 01:22 PM
You should be able to fit the standard mini bits. Mini engine mounts, mini lower front gearbox steady, (goes to front of front subframe), also top steady from the block to near the clutch cylinders. As long as you put decent moutns and bushes in that should do it, but you do have the option of the ultimate head steady if needed - but you'll have to dump the spacer plate, to fit the steady to the thermostat housing bolts.
Dave
Dave
#4
oliver122
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One Carb Or Two?
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Posted 23 March 2012 - 04:54 PM
i emailed dsn an dthey cam eback with a swift and detailed reply 
The different steady bar lengths relate to the age of the subframe, not the engine size.
The clutch end would be ENG3267 for the fixed one or ENG3269 for the adjustable.
The thermostat end would be the ENG3280.
Using a Metro engine as late as 1989 will present a few issues....
The Metro has a cable clutch. Our recommendation is to remove the entire flywheel assembly from your Mini engine and use this on the Metro unit. Also from the Mini, use the end cover with it's arm, the slave cylinder, hose, etc. Also, you should use the Mini starter motor because the Metro one gets close to the front panel in a Mini.
There won't be a heater take off point on the Metro cylinder head. If you are lucky, there will be two tapped holes for the fixings and you will have to drill out the water hole in the middle.
There won't be a bypass hose for the water pump. Contrary to what some will tell you, it is important to have this. You will need a Mini thermostat spacer (the Metro one is no use because it doesn't have a radiator mounting point). Our part number WET3067. This will provide a hose attachment point. You can plumb this to a tee piece. Your heater return will also attach to this. Then the 3rd leg of the tee is plumbed to the stub on the Mini bottom hose. This gives you, not only the heater return, but a bypass feature to replace the stubby hose on the Mini engine.
You will then need the late mini radiator bracket, WET3071. This uses a feature on the thermostat spacer mentioned above.
Then you need to use the Mini thermostat housing and a Mini SPi top hose, WET3055.
The Metro will have an electronic ignition distributor. You will need a coil to suit this. Our number ELE3043. And it need a 12v supply. Your Mini has a resistor wire feeding 9v to the existing coil. Just run a new standard wire from a switched supply to the +ve side of the coil.
In your car, the Metro carburettor gets very close to the bulkhead. When the Mini started using this type of carb in 1990, they moved the engine forward by about 10mm. This is when the different length arms are needed. In your case, you might need to take a hammer to the bulkhead to increase clearance a little.
There.... we have come full circle!
The different steady bar lengths relate to the age of the subframe, not the engine size.
The clutch end would be ENG3267 for the fixed one or ENG3269 for the adjustable.
The thermostat end would be the ENG3280.
Using a Metro engine as late as 1989 will present a few issues....
The Metro has a cable clutch. Our recommendation is to remove the entire flywheel assembly from your Mini engine and use this on the Metro unit. Also from the Mini, use the end cover with it's arm, the slave cylinder, hose, etc. Also, you should use the Mini starter motor because the Metro one gets close to the front panel in a Mini.
There won't be a heater take off point on the Metro cylinder head. If you are lucky, there will be two tapped holes for the fixings and you will have to drill out the water hole in the middle.
There won't be a bypass hose for the water pump. Contrary to what some will tell you, it is important to have this. You will need a Mini thermostat spacer (the Metro one is no use because it doesn't have a radiator mounting point). Our part number WET3067. This will provide a hose attachment point. You can plumb this to a tee piece. Your heater return will also attach to this. Then the 3rd leg of the tee is plumbed to the stub on the Mini bottom hose. This gives you, not only the heater return, but a bypass feature to replace the stubby hose on the Mini engine.
You will then need the late mini radiator bracket, WET3071. This uses a feature on the thermostat spacer mentioned above.
Then you need to use the Mini thermostat housing and a Mini SPi top hose, WET3055.
The Metro will have an electronic ignition distributor. You will need a coil to suit this. Our number ELE3043. And it need a 12v supply. Your Mini has a resistor wire feeding 9v to the existing coil. Just run a new standard wire from a switched supply to the +ve side of the coil.
In your car, the Metro carburettor gets very close to the bulkhead. When the Mini started using this type of carb in 1990, they moved the engine forward by about 10mm. This is when the different length arms are needed. In your case, you might need to take a hammer to the bulkhead to increase clearance a little.
There.... we have come full circle!
Edited by oliver122, 23 March 2012 - 04:54 PM.
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