11 replies to this topic

[richie]

Hi everyone, just been stipping down the mini ready for some general repairs and i noticed that theres alot of forward/backward play on the engine. Found out that the top engine steady bar? - the "plate" that it secures to is knackered. The plate sits under the secondary brake fluid resivior and the brake master servo? I have managed to get one nut off but the other is under the secondary resivior itself is there an easy way to get it off? Or is there another way to replace the plate?

Bianca is a '94 mayfair SPI. Forgive my non-technical wording i got Bianca to start learning. Thanks all, Richie

[jamesmpi]

Can't give you a direct answer but this question is best asked in the injection section.....one of the mods should be able to move it for you ;)

[modandmini]

I used two or three extention bars from a socket set and got at the lower nut from under the car at the back of the engine hope this helps it worked for me

[xrocketengineer]

i assume you are referring to nut under clutch reservoir. For some reason they were Metric on my 94 Cooper. I used a 13mm box end wrench and plenty of penetrating oil. Only MiniSpares has the plate:
http://www.minispare...id=33837&title=

i had to replace the lower bracket too and I found this bolted on one made out of stainless steel from Seven Enterprises here in the US.

http://www.7ent.com/products/dogbone-mount-repair-bracket-for075.html

Edited by xrocketengineer, 31 March 2012 - 05:19 PM.

[tiger99]

It would be rare for the plate to be so far gone that it can't be repaired by welding. Often the hole is enlarged, and the quick repair, which will last for ages, is to weld in a reasonably thick washer. You don't necessarily need to dismantle much to do that, depending on model.

The hole in the lower bracket is usually in the same state, always caused by running the car with the spacer within the bushes missing, or the bolt not tightened properly. As most Minis have had many owners by now, problems like this are very common. It pulls away from the crossmember too, but a quick seam weld across the top fixes that permanently.

The bolty needs to be really tight, to grip the spacer, not nipped up just to squeeze the rubber, and some previous owner may not have understood that.

[modandmini]

i assume you are referring to nut under clutch reservoir. For some reason they were Metric on my 94 Cooper. I used a 13mm box end wrench and plenty of penetrating oil. Only MiniSpares has the plate:
http://www.minispare...id=33837&title=

i had to replace the lower bracket too and I found this bolted on one made out of stainless steel from Seven Enterprises here in the US.

http://www.7ent.com/...ket-for075.html

this look interesting how did you sercure it ? tap the bulkhead ? or can you get to the rear to get nuts on the bolts ?

[richie]

Thanks for the quick replys, on the first pic posted by xrocketengineer its the nut on the right that im trying to get too, but dont have much room to play with, do i need to take more bits off?

Tiger99, the hole in the plate has enlarged, i just figured that replacing the plate would be the best option, how long would a welding fix last?

All the stripping actuall started because of the "rock" that happens when i go into 2nd, i thought it was the bushes, as it happens they need replacing, it wasnt untill this afternoon that i noticed the plate had the hole in. I cant actually see a washer but the bolt has gone through. Is the hole that big normally?

Is it going to be easier if i get some pics up?

Cheers everyone, Richie

Sorry for all the questions

[xrocketengineer]

modandmini,

It has nuts with spring washers on the inside. The one on the right of the picture is the hardest one to install. You need a helper outside to hold the bolt while you install the nut and washer from inside. Once it is on, a socket with a long extension will fit inside but it will be tight. The nuts and washers for the other ones can be installed easily through the bulkhead holes for the brake and clutch push rods.

richie

You can not remove the nut with a socket and probably an open end wrench will not fit either. A box end wrench works perfectly.

Edited by xrocketengineer, 31 March 2012 - 05:51 PM.

[tiger99]

A welding fix can be regarded as permanent if done reasonably well.

I may be missing something, but on every Mini I have ever seen, the master cylinder studs, which retain this plate, are captive in the pedal box, which does not fall out as it has other fixings too, so you only need to fit the nuts and washers from above. I have just checked on the Somerford web site and it seems to confirm that.

I have always used an open ended spanner on that nut, but you do need to be very sure whether it is 13mm, or 1/2", the two are not close enough and using the wrong open-ended spanner, it will slip and chew the nut, especially as you have to use the spanner at a strange angle sometimes. Every one I have seen was 1/2".

[richie]

Cheers, for all the responses, ill have another look tomorrow as the light in the garage is a bit poor. Ill try the nut with the box end wrench again, didnt seem to have enough room earlier. I think i will replace the plate as i had another look earlier and it does seem very rusty, as long as it doesnt take till November to sort, my sister wants Bianca as her wedding car!

[xrocketengineer]

tiger99
You are right that the master cylinder studs are captive. I could not get 1/2" socket nor wrench to fit, 13 mm was perfect which surprised me. As you can see in the picture the nuts are not rounded off.
The spring washers and nuts that I am referring to is to secure the lower stainless steel bracket on the inside answering modandmini's question.

Cheers,
Ivan

[tiger99]

Thanks for clearing up that confusion! And yes, I can see why the other bolts would be rather difficult, especially single-handed! Sometimes a bit of weld is much more practicable, but only when you have the equipment.