12 replies to this topic

[JP Detailing]

Due to popular demand, the next part will be alloys and tyres (don’t worry, we will be coming back to bodywork cleaning and prep next time).
Unfortunately, there are a lot of acidic wheel cleaners out there that in the long run, potentially do more harm than good. This doesn’t just apply to wheel cleaners, but to bodywork cleansers too. Have you ever noticed centre caps and car badges sometimes have this weird white bubbling on them which ruins it?



This is that damage. Always try to use PH neutral products. Some of the best are only available online. Personally, I use Bilberry and Dodos mellow yellow. Strong cleaners with a gentle touch. There’s more out there that are great, it’s all personal preference.

Now you know the importance of non-acidic products, let’s begin!

Alloys and Tyres

What you need:

• Wheel brush – EZ brushes are some of the best around
• Tyre brush, anything with a semi stiff bristle
• Wheel woollies – Soft giant cotton-bud like tools. Great for hard to reach areas on wheels (I didn’t use these on this guide today)
• Wheel cleaner (Bilberry or something similar
• All purpose cleaner
• Iron-x or similar product
• Clay bar
• Tar spot remover – Might be needed if there’s some stubborn bits
• Drying Towel
• Wheel wax
• Tyre gel/liquid

The process

• Rinse the wheel well
• Spray APC over the tyre
• Work in well with a tyre brush. Do this twice if very dirty
• Rinse the tyres
• Spray wheel cleaner onto your alloy
• Use the alloy brush and work it in gently. Thoroughly cleansing the wheel.
• Rinse
• Spray on Iron-X. After 10 mins, your wheel should look like a purple mess (this is good). It’s removing all the iron, tar deposits, brake dust and other fallout from the wheel.
• Rinse well
• Re-apply wheel cleaner and work well with the wheel woolie.
• Rinse and apply tar removing gel if needed.
• Dry the wheel.
• Apply a thin layer of wax
• Leave for 10 mins, and then reapply another thin layer of wax.

This leaves your wheel the cleanest it ever has been and will be. It’s protected so the elements and salts wont damage it and it’s now a doddle to clean in the future.

NOTE: For future cleans, you should only need to use some water and wax safe car shampoo. This will ensure that the wax stays put but the dirt is gone. If applied properly, it will last for around 3 months (depending on wax). So look to start the whole process again at that point.

This is a fairly beat up old wheel which I just quickly detailed to show that even one as boring as this can shine gloriously.

Here’s some pictures of the process





Spray APC onto tyre and Alloy


Work in with tyre brush


Spray wheel cleaner onto the alloy


Nom Nom


Get in there my son! (with a wheel brush)


Now time for Iron X


Iron X doing its thing




Tarmalade to remove little tar spots etc


WIDE OVER, QUICK RINSE AND DRY

Now time for wheel wax


Working it baby


Just look at that flake pop


Now, either of these are good. I like Z-16, but as Megs is readily available from shops, I'll use this for this guide.


Work it in (apply twice)


Tah-Dah!


And after the tyre dressing has dried


Some before and afters


And heres the products used during this guide




About 6 months ago, to demonstrate how clean you can get a grubby wheel, I did a full blasting of a spare I had lying around. Did the front and back. All sealed and using the processes above. Here’s the result.





DURING CLEANINING





AFTER





Because of the state of this...it took a fair while as you can imagine.



Some notes:

• If you get brand new alloys (or even if they relatively new), clean and protect them front and back. They will last longer, look super shiny and be much easier to clean in the future.
• Alloys take a beating from winter salts so make sure you apply wheel wax in the nooks and crannies.
• Make sure your applicator pad is slightly damp when applying wax. This will make it easier to spread.
• Always clean the tyre first as it’s the dirtiest.
• Don’t use acidic products. As you can see from the pictures above, the finished result is ruined by a damaged centre cap. Acids don’t just destroy caps, it contributes to bubbling on the alloy too!
• Take your time, dont rush. Its your wheel, be gentle and patient and the rewards will be

Some of you may have also seen that I am offering a free detail to a Mini owner on TMF. Hopefully, whichever one gets chosen by you guys will have Minilites. Then I can show you this process on the alloy we all know and love

Thanks for viewing.
Jack.

[benpopham]

Hey.. cant believe no one has replied!!

Thanks for doing this write up mate, was waiting for it :) just ordered most of the products you suggested to help keep my spectrums looking spot on. Thank you very much!

Ben

[s.parker]

yeah sorry i was following part one thinking you would add too that.

great thread again and don't worry i like lots of pics :)

one thing, when you say all purpose cleaner what sort of product do you mean?

[fikasteve]

This is brilliant, i just used to quickly wipe over them after washing but defineatly give this a go on the weekend. Appreciate it. Cant wait for part 3 now. Is it coming when you've got your volunteer mini to detail?

[morley]

don't know how i missed this either, very helpful!

[JP Detailing]

Haha thanks for all the positive comments. Part three will arrive once the Mini details has been completed.

All purpose cleaner: You can buy this from tesco (see link below). Its great for the first wipe over of really grubby areas like tyres and arches (dont use it on paintwork). Dirt cheap too (hah- dirt. she what I did there?)

http://www.mysuperma...nd_lime_1l.html

[s.parker]

ah :) i figured it would be something like that. thanks

[Spherix]

Yay, part two! I'll have to get some decent brushes specially for the rims I see ;)

[JP Detailing]

Its up to you what you buy. A special brush does help and cleans them safetly.

EZ do a good range. For minilites I'd get EZ's small brush :)

[Spherix]

I currently used the brush I used for the rest of the car, only at the very end of cleaning the car; which ofcourse isn't the best option ;)

[iDemonix]

I just bought some iron x, coincidence! In talks with CarPro to become an official Iron X distributor.

[surfblue]

Brill threads, got powder coated standard steels on the mini so they're dead easy to keep clean but have a Discovery with some fairly grotty alloys, especially on the inside, I'll give them a go like you suggest

[Jase]

This is fantastic, thanks for posting. If you have new wheels should you just wax them front and back before you use them?

 

Thanks