6 replies to this topic

[warning634]

Hi guys

I'm looking for hints and tips in lining up and fitting engine mounts, I have solid mounts with captive nuts.
Is there a better side to fit first? Should the mounts be fitted lose to the engine, would that give me more play to line the holes up.

Please help

Cheers

Kevin

[Lewis-142]

Can i ask where you purchased these as im in the process of ordering now but can only find the normal ones or just sold metal if you want to call it that.. do they not do poly engine mounts??

[warning634]

Hi Lewis-142

I bought mine from minispares.

http://www.minispare...id=37555&title=

They say that are for competition mini's only. I just can't line them up, I would normal put a screwdriver through the subframe and the mount and give it a good wangle, but since it has captive nuts I can't as I will bugger up the threads!

Cheers

Kevin

[CLM]

I would imagine they will be more trouble then they are worth shortly, they have no give so unless the engine fits to the holes in your subframe you are going to have to modify something no flex is no give so the screwdriver and pry technique would be inefective without the give in the rubber to allow it to deform. Your best bet may be to alter the mounting holes on the subframe so everything lines up.

Chris

[Yoda]

As stated, open the holes in the subframe a little and use oversize flat or repair washers under the bolt heads. mind you, i would use poly mounts to reduce vibration levels, not the all metal ones unless you are into serious racing. too much stress on the car and yourself.

Edited by Yoda, 08 April 2012 - 07:19 AM.

[warning634]

I would imagine they will be more trouble then they are worth shortly, they have no give so unless the engine fits to the holes in your subframe you are going to have to modify something no flex is no give so the screwdriver and pry technique would be inefective without the give in the rubber to allow it to deform. Your best bet may be to alter the mounting holes on the subframe so everything lines up.

Chris

Yer that's what I was thinking, looks like I will have to break out the files an elongate the holes, so that I have a bit more play to get everything lined up.

Cheers

Kevin

[Wil_h]

Don't elongate the holes in the subframe, this will leave your engine in the wrong place, basically higher up; not good if this is a racing car, you really want it lower.

The first thing to do is knock out the captive nuts, these are at best useless and make fitting more difficult. They easily knock out with a drift and a hammer.

Then you need to make the engine narrower. I know this sounds odd. There are two ways to achieve this:

1) Elongate the holes on the steel end plate (the engine mount that has the rad mount on it. This will move the position of the rad and may require some other mods to the bracket to clear the pulley (especially if you have a trigger wheel).

2) Modify the alloy mounting block http://www.minispare...id=33436&title= . You can do this by removing it and filing flat the spacers on the rear to move it closer to the gearbox. Again you may need to mod the steel mounting bracket to clear the pulley.

You'll be amazed how much your engine can still move with the solid mounts fitted. any slight movement in them transferres to a large movement at the top of the engine. so make sure you have nice solid to psteadies too.

Solid mounts are noisy, but they really help gear change and stop everything moving around making the car more consistant to drive.