7 replies to this topic

[gingerneon]

Hello everyone,

My first post on this site and it may have been asked many times before but i hope you can help!!!

I have a 1991 998 mini neon and i have just purchased a 1989 MG metro to use the engine in my mini.

When i have pulled both engines out;

What are the bits i need to use off the 998?( if any)

What has to be changed or altered on the MG engine?

I am using the stage 1 lcb/exhaust system, but am going to buy a new filter for the hif44 carb!

Any ideas what needle will get me to the rolling road?

Cheers Robbie

[alloying]

Hello everyone,

My first post on this site and it may have been asked many times before but i hope you can help!!!

I have a 1991 998 mini neon and i have just purchased a 1989 MG metro to use the engine in my mini.

When i have pulled both engines out;

What are the bits i need to use off the 998?( if any)

What has to be changed or altered on the MG engine?

I am using the stage 1 lcb/exhaust system, but am going to buy a new filter for the hif44 carb!

Any ideas what needle will get me to the rolling road?

Cheers Robbie

I'd take a shot at an AAA. Richer on the mid and top end but normal just off idle.

If you really want to play it safe, there's a program called winsu (www.winsu.co.uk) which if you register, you type in your engine details, mods etc, and it will give you a list of needles to try. It's £9.99 to register and apparently it's really good.

[alloying]

When i have pulled both engines out;

What are the bits i need to use off the 998?( if any)

What has to be changed or altered on the MG engine?

Both the metro and mini use the BL's A series engine design (or in your case, the A+ which basically gives a higher compression ratio than the A series). If the metro engine runs (satisfactory) all you need to do is drop the new engine into the mini and attach your exhaust and inlet manifold. I take it you have a seperate inlet manifold ready? You shouldn't have any trouble fitting the metro engine into the mini.

Twin tanks maybe a good idea.

[Dan]

If you use the site search feature or check the FAQ you will find many helpful posts about this, in fact I think it's come up about four times in the last month alone! The trickiest problems for you will be the cooling system and power to the ignition but it's not hard work. It's all listed on the site.

Good luck.

[Guess-Works.com]

I'd take a shot at an AAA. Richer on the mid and top end but normal just off idle.

An AAA needle is for an HS4/HIF38 or 0.09" jet. For an HIF44 you will need a B prefix needle which is sized for the 0.1" jet. A fairly standard BDL will get you there, but may be changed to something like a BDK.

The compression of the engine has nothing to do with whether it's an A series or A+, and infact most A+'s run lower compression for economy and the reduced octane rating of fuel.

You can check the engine number against the list in the FAQ, for the charactersitics, in general however, the only things which need changing when going from small bore to large bore are the top hose and radiator bracket.

As Dan says, if you are switching to a metro electornic ignition system there will be some wiring alterations necessary, but nothing which is not well documented.

[gingerneon]

Cheers Dan!

Cheers GuessWorks!!

Quick question, other people have said that the fan catches on the timing cover and mentioned spacers, is this right?

[Guess-Works.com]

If the timing cover has a breather attached, then, yes this is sometimes the case, 1st make sure you have the fan on the right way round, and before you fit the fan belt and radiator, give it a test turn, If it catches then you can do one of two things, add spacer washers behind the fan to move it further out, or 'modify' the breather with aid of evey mini owners favourite tool... the BFH.

Also it's worth test fitting the radiator, as the ideal situation is to get the fan as close to the matrix as possible ( without touching ) as this will greatly improve the cooling efficiency..

[Dan]

Fan spacer shims are a standard part and readily available from Mini specialists, the thin ones are about 3mm and the thick ones about 10. They are also curiously enough amost exactly the right dimensions to use as a disc brake wheel bearing setter and much easier than making your own.