I have a '96 1275cc Automatic Injection Mayfair.
I have just had a full MOT and Service with no troubles at all, then realised my Alternator had given up the ghost so bought a new one and a new battery and swapped them both in. Also swapped my spark plugs.
Since the MOT and service and the new parts I fitted, the acceleration has been lagging (and considering the automatics dont move very fast anyway this is quite an issue).
Any ideas as to why this may be?

Acceleration Lagging. Please Help.
Started by
SamMayfair1996
, Apr 29 2012 10:16 AM
4 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 29 April 2012 - 10:16 AM
#2
Posted 29 April 2012 - 10:51 AM
First question would be, what did they do in the service? Adjusting of the handbrake, new brake pads, anything drive train related could all have an effect on acceleration if something is binding. Check the service sheet for what they did.
Also what oil was used, auto's are somewhat more fussy than manuals because the gearbox is flooded in the sump oil and made of rubber bands. If they've filled the car with an oil containing a friction inhibitor you could be getting some slip in the gearbox.
Something worth checking as a first step actually, if the MoT tester was a bit over zealous with his yanking he could of siezed the drums on a touch which would cause drag.
Other than that, it would be logical to assume that whatever has caused the loss of get up and go is related to the changes made. Does the engine sound different at all? Checking the plugs are all firing and correctly gapped would be the first thing (and easiest), followed by refitting them and making sure the leads aren't loose at all.
Then making sure the alternator belt isn't too loose and also the alternator itself is giving out enough charge (multimeter across the battery with the car running will tell you that).
Once you eliminate it's not the parts you fitted and that the servicing garage didn't do anything 'unhelpful' then it's onto more classical diagnosis :)
By the way, auto's should be damn fast at accelerating if you use the 1/2/3 option, no clutch lag!
Don't panic, nothing that can't be fixed.
Also what oil was used, auto's are somewhat more fussy than manuals because the gearbox is flooded in the sump oil and made of rubber bands. If they've filled the car with an oil containing a friction inhibitor you could be getting some slip in the gearbox.
Something worth checking as a first step actually, if the MoT tester was a bit over zealous with his yanking he could of siezed the drums on a touch which would cause drag.
Other than that, it would be logical to assume that whatever has caused the loss of get up and go is related to the changes made. Does the engine sound different at all? Checking the plugs are all firing and correctly gapped would be the first thing (and easiest), followed by refitting them and making sure the leads aren't loose at all.
Then making sure the alternator belt isn't too loose and also the alternator itself is giving out enough charge (multimeter across the battery with the car running will tell you that).
Once you eliminate it's not the parts you fitted and that the servicing garage didn't do anything 'unhelpful' then it's onto more classical diagnosis :)
By the way, auto's should be damn fast at accelerating if you use the 1/2/3 option, no clutch lag!

Don't panic, nothing that can't be fixed.

#3
Posted 29 April 2012 - 11:00 AM
You say since the MOT its been slow.
The garage probably reduced the fuel mixture to get the car through emissions. I've had this on mine before and just needed to richen the mixture again
The garage probably reduced the fuel mixture to get the car through emissions. I've had this on mine before and just needed to richen the mixture again
#4
Posted 29 April 2012 - 11:10 AM
You say since the MOT its been slow.
The garage probably reduced the fuel mixture to get the car through emissions. I've had this on mine before and just needed to richen the mixture again
Is it straight forward on an injection? On a carb model I can see how it might benefit the idle reading but on an HIF carb the mixture screw doesn't effect F:A on throttle, the needle profile covers that.
#5
Posted 29 April 2012 - 12:56 PM
Ahh no sorry didn't see the injection part.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users