
1974 Mini Clubman, Brake Bleeding Nightmare (Drums All Round)
#1
Posted 29 April 2012 - 04:40 PM
I have a 1974 Mini clubman auto, and the inline brake light switch failed (the brakes were fine tho) i have now replaced the switch, and did some work, which included back plates on the front and new drums and shoes.
When i first bled the brakes you could not a get a pedal at all, then after loads of bleeding (5 litres) there was not one bubble, but for the brakes to work you have to pump them once.
i am at my wits end with it......
Put 5 litres of brake fluid through it, with no bubbles showing.
Replaced the brakelight switch again (just in case)
Chocked the brake pedal down for 24 hours the system held the pressure.
There are no leaks anywhere.
Bled in the correct order.
Used manual method and ezibleed.
The master cylinder is only 12 months old.
I have had a garage try and fail, a mini specialist also try and fail. The best we can all get is one pump then you get a pedal.
The brakes were perfect before the the switch failed.
I am at my wits end with it, and before i do anything I regret, can someone help me out.
Any advice would be gladly recieved......... please please help !!!
#2
Posted 29 April 2012 - 04:43 PM
Have you tried to use an ezi-bleed?
#3
Posted 29 April 2012 - 04:46 PM
Thanks.
#4
Posted 29 April 2012 - 04:47 PM
Edited by FinnMini, 29 April 2012 - 04:49 PM.
#5
Posted 29 April 2012 - 04:48 PM
#6
Posted 29 April 2012 - 05:06 PM
Thanks
#7
Posted 29 April 2012 - 05:14 PM
I had a very similar problem with the brakes on my estate, just couldn't get a pedal. Replaced everything, master, bias valve, still nothing. I noticed that the fluid on the passengers side came out a bit slower than the rest,
Turned out the passengers hose had collapsed and was acting pretty much like one way valve. Changed it and perfect!!
Same thing has happened to a few mates as well.
#8
Posted 29 April 2012 - 05:25 PM
#9
Posted 29 April 2012 - 07:45 PM
I have the same issue when my brake light switch failed.
Now I cant get a good pedal and I an re sealing my master cylinder as we speak
#10
Posted 29 April 2012 - 07:47 PM
I suggest (no guarantees!) that you put the Eezibleed on, at its maximum rated pressure and full of fluid. Open the nearest nipple, press pedal very fast, and hold down. Close nipple quickly. Release pedal. Repeat as many times as it takes. Obviously two people are neeed.
This works because if the rush of fluid is fast enough it will take the air with it, but you have to get all the air to the open nipple or it will just creep back up to the highest point again.
If renewing the brake pipework, you may wish to think about avoiding the potential for trapping air.
There are several other places where air may also be trapped, same trick of very fast pedal press with the appropriate nipple open seemed to work ok for me last time I did it.
I assume you did adjust the brakes up tight before bleeding? You can always slacken them afterwards, but having them tight minimises the need for fluid displacement except for flushing out air.
#11
Posted 29 April 2012 - 07:49 PM
Watching this with interest,
I have the same issue when my brake light switch failed.
Now I cant get a good pedal and I an re sealing my master cylinder as we speak
Too tight to buy an new master then??!!
Did you check the rear flexis?
#12
Posted 29 April 2012 - 08:04 PM
New rear flexi's
#13
Posted 29 April 2012 - 10:03 PM
I might be way off but just a thought

#14
Posted 29 April 2012 - 10:05 PM
New rear cylinder but it will lock the rear brakes on the inch of pedal that I have !!
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