12 replies to this topic

[mumford54]

Ok I have a good 12V on the end of the conector.

Then when I connect that to the horn. Nothing 0V, no change at all.

Cleaned both termination.

Taken horn off and cleaned back and cleaned body work of car incase of bad earth.

[PAWL3Y]

hit it

[mumford54]

Yep tried that technical one too

[mumford54]

Update

I have tried a know working horn but still nothing. 12V on connection before connecting then nothing when connected to the working horn.

Any ideas ?

Also another electrical problem I am having is my lights. Nothing on the switch is working. The flasher on the stalk nether.

When I put the meter on the switch I see 12v before switching then nothing after.

Any ideas as I'm lost on how I am loosing volts like this.

[maggies_minder]

no good with electrics but have you checked fuses??

[mumford54]

Yes checked all fuses and fine

[mumford54]

It cant be a fuse or inline fuse as I get 12V at then end of the connector.

Anyone else?

[kevinr6]

Try swapping wires, sounds silly but worth checking

[mumford54]

Swapping wires? What you mean like puting the horn on the end of another electrical items feed

[dklawson]

There are cars with horn relays and cars without. The wiring is obviously different. Which type is your car? What year?

[tiger99]

As Doug says, we need more information.

For now, I will assume that you don't have a relay. If you have a horn button in the centre of the steering wheel, where only earth return is available, there will be a purple wire (fused accessory supply, always live) on the positive side of the horn, and a purple-black wire on the negative side, which is earthed when you press the button in the centre of the steering wheel. If you have volts at the purple wire until you connect it to the horn, and then nothing, unless a fuse blows every time it is clearly a high resistance upstream, plus maybe a short to earth in the horn, so you need to follow the purple wire back through every connection, all the way to the source of its supply. But is this configuration is in good order, you will always have 12V on the purple , and 12v on the purple-black until you press the button, when the purple-black will drop to zero. If it does and there is no sound, the horn is broken. The relevant fuse will have purple wires on one side and brown (permanently live) on the other. Check them all for corrosion.

If you have a purple-black wire and a black earth wire at the horn, you have a steering column stalk, which is wired between the purple fused accessory supply and the horn positive. In that case, there will only be volts on the purple-black when the button is pressed. Possible high resistance at the button, or the connectors on the steering column.

But give us any more informationm that you can, and we may be able to think of something else.

[mumford54]

Thanks for the replies.

Ok so I retuminated both spade terminals on the brown's that conect to pesition 3 on the fuse block as they looked a little corded.

My lights all work fine now.

And I now get 9.3V at the horn when connected plus the horn makes a poping sound.

I have tested that the horn works fine by connecting it to 12V else where in engine.

Model is a City E 1998. The horn is on end of the right stalk and only one purple black wire to the horn.

[tiger99]

Good. You are making progress. 9.3V is not very good, so you should probably check at both sides of the horn switch, and at the bullet connectors or multiplug on the steering column, and at the fuse, to see where the voltage is being lost when the button is pressed. But if the horn has an adjusting screw, it may be possible to tweak it into life even at the reduced voltage. Not a permanent fix, of course.

It will be something loose, dirty or corroded, of course. Always is with the electrical system on most cars.