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Steering Column Bracket Removal


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#1 jameslearwood

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 07:59 PM

1993 rover rio.

Hi done a noobie error and trashed the thread on the bolts that the brake/clutch reservoirs/pedals fix to. My plan is to remove the bracket grind the bolt welds off and replace with new ones.

Two problems not 100% on how to get bracket off cant find it in haynes? will it be easiest to remove columd first worried i'll effect alignment.

which bolts are am i after to replace?

exhibt a

Posted Image

any help would be appreciated before i damage something else.

#2 R1minimagic

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 08:05 PM

They dont really look too bad, can you get a needle file on them to clean the top threads up?

Taking it out means removing the column and the lower dash rail bracket which is a bit of a pig as they are security bolts and need stud extractors to remove

Edited by R1minimagic, 03 May 2012 - 08:05 PM.


#3 jameslearwood

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 08:12 PM

was thinking about just trying to clean them up it was a flap sanding disc on the grinder so worse than it looks, problem is taking it out would make life easier in terms of clean away surface rust and paint and for painting.
However those security botls look a right nightmare given the position and i dont think i have a stud extractor!

#4 skoughi

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 08:30 PM

Would it be worth buying a set of imperial taps and dies and trying a die on them to see if that can clean them up. It'll save a lot of work if there's enough metal on them to get a new thread.

#5 jameslearwood

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 08:45 PM

could be a good option i think i have a set somewhere not sure on the sizes thinks its metric though.

how do you determine which die you want is the question?

#6 charie t

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 08:52 PM

could be a good option i think i have a set somewhere not sure on the sizes thinks its metric though.

how do you determine which die you want is the question?

when the threads are correct. A thread gauge should be with your set, or a 5/16th unf tap

#7 tiger99

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 09:32 PM

They are 5/16" UNF, and there is not enough metal to rethread them to 8mm. If all else fails, you will need a replacement pedal box, or weld in new studs. Note that they do carry a moderately heavy load, your maximum foot pressure (likely more than your weight, as you are pusing against the seat when braking heavily) multiplied by the pedal ratio, and are safety critical, so no bodged welds. The metal is thick, so a cheap arc welder will do the job, but if using high tensile studding, or making them from 5/16" bolts, you will need 7013 rods, which must be very dry (bake then in the oven), or the high tensile steel is liable to crack when you least expect it. That goes for anywhere that you make something by welding to a grade 8.8 bolt of course.

If in doubt, get a good used pedal box from a scrappy.

If you are disturbing the steering column and/pr pedal box, be sure to loosen both rack U bolts, and only tighten them once everthing else is back in place and tightened up. You will not affect the alignment. Oh, and fit a new pinch bolt and locknut.

#8 jameslearwood

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 06:44 AM

Right cheers for that will attempt to retap the thread first if that's a no go will look for a replacement pedal box.
Didn't think about the loads only have a mig welder guessing those welds won't be upto strength. Least i know the easiest option now :D

#9 R1minimagic

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 08:03 AM

I have pedal boxes just in case you decide to go that route, cheers

#10 tiger99

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 09:26 AM

You could weld new studs with a MIG, provided you obtain at least a small spool of the appropriate wire for welding low carbon steel. The same wire is ok for general use too, as is 7013 for arc welding, it is just not as cheap as the normal grade. Low hydrogen is the key thing, and for that reason you need to be careful with the choice of gas, and flush out any water vapour from the atmosphere by using a fairly high gas flow. The MIG welding forum will be able to advise on which wire to use, if you did have to weld them. I see that stainless E312 is one of the possibilities, and that happens to be useful for other things too, like welding stainless to mild steel, and is available in small spools.

http://www.mig-weldi...brittlement.htm

#11 jameslearwood

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 07:06 AM

R1 that great cheers i have ordered a imperial tap and die set so will give that a bash first. tiger cheers for that just shows how little i know about welding lol so i think ill not go down that route on such a crucial bit of kit.




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