What is the best way to replace the outer race of the nose bearing, and is it realy necessary?

First Motion Shaft Bearing
Started by
Joe555
, May 04 2012 04:53 PM
8 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 04 May 2012 - 04:53 PM
#2
Posted 04 May 2012 - 05:05 PM
Do you mean 'is it necessary to have that bearing'? Yes it is,
It's easy to change. Take off the circlip and prise the old bearing from the shaft. To remove the outer race from the transfer gear casing can be more difficult. What I normally do is to run a line of MIG-weld around the inside of the outer race, then prise it out of the casing whilst it's still very hot.
It's easy to change. Take off the circlip and prise the old bearing from the shaft. To remove the outer race from the transfer gear casing can be more difficult. What I normally do is to run a line of MIG-weld around the inside of the outer race, then prise it out of the casing whilst it's still very hot.
#3
Posted 04 May 2012 - 06:41 PM
I used this for both bearings and it worked well:
http://www.harborfre...ller-95987.html
However, I did learn that gravity helps to make thing easier. I first tried with pulling up with the casing on the floor and me kneeling on top a piece of wood with no success. Then, I used a wooden frame left over from the base of shipping box of a dishwasher C-clamped to and overlapping the top a table. I set the casing on top of the frame and put some small pieces of wood on the table so the casing was fully supported all the way around. I pulled downwards through the gap between the table's edge and the wooden frame. The outer race came out with two hits. The idler gear bearing came out with ten or so hits but it was moving all along.
http://www.harborfre...ller-95987.html
However, I did learn that gravity helps to make thing easier. I first tried with pulling up with the casing on the floor and me kneeling on top a piece of wood with no success. Then, I used a wooden frame left over from the base of shipping box of a dishwasher C-clamped to and overlapping the top a table. I set the casing on top of the frame and put some small pieces of wood on the table so the casing was fully supported all the way around. I pulled downwards through the gap between the table's edge and the wooden frame. The outer race came out with two hits. The idler gear bearing came out with ten or so hits but it was moving all along.
Edited by xrocketengineer, 05 May 2012 - 01:39 PM.
#4
Posted 05 May 2012 - 12:38 PM
What i should have said is, is it realy necessary to replace the outer race because it looks OK . The only thing wrong with the bit that holds the rollers is that I broke the plastic bit when I leavered it off. That tool looks good, I will see if I can get one at a reasonable price localy.
#5
Posted 05 May 2012 - 01:15 PM
The outer race must always be replaced if a new inner and rollers is fitted. I believe this is because they are supplied as a matched pair, or at the very least there are slight dimensional differences between bearing manufacturers.
Do what Cooperman has suggested, as the weld cools it contracts and shrinks the bearing outer with it. Very often if you slam the transfer housing face down hard and square on a wooden surface the outer will fall out.
Do what Cooperman has suggested, as the weld cools it contracts and shrinks the bearing outer with it. Very often if you slam the transfer housing face down hard and square on a wooden surface the outer will fall out.
#6
Posted 05 May 2012 - 02:30 PM
If you are local to Northampton I have the rover tool for getting it out.....
#7
Posted 05 May 2012 - 04:00 PM
you cant beat having the right tools for the right job
#8
Posted 05 May 2012 - 05:20 PM
Thanks for all the replies, It looks like I will have to do it.
#9
Posted 07 May 2012 - 08:09 AM
I'ts out. I removed the circlip and warmed the housing (very gently) with a blow torch. Tapped the housing, (didn't have to bang it) on a bit of 4 x 2 wood and the race fell out, easy as that and it wasn't a fluke, because I did a test run first on an old flywheel housing.
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