11 replies to this topic

[Wakey-Dan]

Sorry if this is repeated but what is the correct setting for the castle nut on the front hub.

I've done mine to the pinned guide above which says 60lb but then reading the mini mag today and that says 150lb or 190lb for later types?

Obviously this significant difference has caused some concern.

I've got a 94 mini 35

[tiger99]

We need to know whether you have ball or roller bearings in the hub, i.e. whether you have drums or discs, and whether you have one split pin hole, or two at right angles, to be completely sure.

The latest Rover manual which I have says 260Nm, which is approximately 190 ft lbf, and of course to the next split pin hole. That is for disc brakes.

If you have discs, don't forget to nip up tightly (abou 50 ft lbf, not all the way) with the special washer before fitting the split cone and torquing up fully.

[bmcecosse]

The 'special washer' thing is SO unnecessary......never ever used anything like that - and never had any problems either.....

[Wakey-Dan]

Cheers, looks like Im only 160lb out then!

What issues is this likely to have caused?

It has had a knocking when going over bumps and a constant jerkiness. I've been on the motorway with it like this and it passed the mot on Tuesday, although granted this wouldn't have been something i would have expected them to pick up on.

Would it be possible for the drive shaft to be popping in and out?

And i don't know what you mean by your last paragraph, tighten up to 50lb with the washer and then split cone bit doesn't make sense to me.

And I've got discs and single split pin type.

[Cooperman]

You fit the shaft as usual, then instead of fitting the split cone washer, you fit a big thick flat washer and torque it up to around 80 to 100 lb.ft. then undo the nut, remove the flat washer and fit the cone washer. Then torque it to 180 lb.ft and see where the split pin hole comes to. Tighten it a bit more until the hole lines up with the slots in the nut and fit the split pin. 'Jobsagoodun'.

[Wakey-Dan]

Don't understand why you would do that? Why torque it up with one washer, just to undo it again, to torque it up with another washer. What's it supposed to do? Thanks for the help tho,

[Wakey-Dan]

And to admin, can we remove the pinned guide above which states 60lb! Wrong and dangerous.

[Dan]

If you mean the one that says : Front hub nut, drum brakes, 60 lbft then no. Because it's right. Read further down the list, all this is written there. And in the Haynes.

Drive shaft nut (front hub, drum brakes). Continue tightening until next split pin slot aligns. Do not slacken off until the next slot aligns! 60 8.3

Fastener Torque (lbft) Torque (kgm)
Drive Shaft Nut. Continue tightening until next split pin slot aligns. Do not slacken off until the next slot aligns! 150 20.7

Actually, you're right it doesn't mention the difference between one and two hole CV joints. I think there is a different version in the FAQ, I'll look into the differences between the versions of the tables.

Edited by Dan, 04 May 2012 - 10:34 PM.

[Wakey-Dan]

Fair enough, just annoyed at having to redo work after just getting the beast back on road after a long winter. Only my own incompetence to blame.

[tiger99]

You do need to use the washer, because the split cone will tend to jam on the shaft and prevent the bearings from becoming seated properly, which will result in them moving on the shaft, which will wear, so you can end up needing a new CV. Worse, if they start moving in the hub, that will need renewing too.

With the washer, tightening the nut pulls the shaft into the inner bearing, and then pushes the outer bearing up tight against the spacer, with no tendency to lock, as anything tapered will. Some people seem to regularly get away without it, others definitely do not. Make of that what you will, the difference is likely due to manufacturing tolerances, so if you don't do it you may or may not be one of those whose bearings fail prematurely.

Hub bearings are safety critical and my preference would always be to do them the official way.

[Dusky]

Got one on order :)
While you're all here : does anyone know the reason the later cv joints use a (much) higher torque figure?
I'd expect it to be the other way round (more initial torque for the multiple hole cv joint because you wont have to torque it much more to get to the next hole)
 
Cheers

Edit, mod could you move my comment to my post?

Edited by Dusky, 13 June 2016 - 09:00 PM.

[MRA]

Got one on order :)
While you're all here : does anyone know the reason the later cv joints use a (much) higher torque figure?
I'd expect it to be the other way round (more initial torque for the multiple hole cv joint because you wont have to torque it much more to get to the next hole)

 

Cheers

 

Once at a higher torque figure any movement will give a correspondingly higher addition therefore 2 holes to avoid damage but to get it correctly tightened and so avoid bearing & CV fretting