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Mini Over Heating/coolant Leaking


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#1 danny_rye

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Posted 22 May 2012 - 08:08 PM

after the London to Brighton run when we arrived at Brighton after we turned the engine off the mini and there was defiantly no leaks. When we came back hours later after buying parts. We came back to a coolant flood underneath the car. So we topped it up with 3 bottles of water and it's been fine ever since considering we drove all the way back to Coventry . Is it just a case of it getting to hot as the fan stopped running when the engine was off or someone more serious?

A few people have said it might be the thermostat but I though that would have made it leak all the time? If I was to get a new rad any recommendations?

Forgot to mention its a 93 Mayfair 1275

Edited by danny_rye, 22 May 2012 - 08:09 PM.


#2 MGBailey007

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Posted 22 May 2012 - 08:25 PM

if i was going to get a new rad i would spend a bit more money and get super cool a high flow alloy one, i will be getting one when i do my engine bay

#3 MGBailey007

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Posted 22 May 2012 - 08:27 PM

they sell them at minisport but they are expensive, better than over heating though http://www.minisport..._C-ARA4441.html

#4 MGBailey007

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Posted 22 May 2012 - 08:28 PM

another thing what i am going to do is put a electric fan on it

#5 danny_rye

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Posted 22 May 2012 - 08:32 PM

I was thinking about a electric fan to be honest , although the engine is completely standard so it might be a bit overkill. But as you said... Better then it leaking :)

#6 MGBailey007

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Posted 22 May 2012 - 08:38 PM

yeh well you will have the standard 3 core rad on you could go for a 4 core one better cooling a bit fatter though, i just like the alloy one because its shiny haha, but i would defiantly say use a electric fan they are ace ant they automatically come on and switches off so its only used when its needed, i don't know about your engine but mine gets so hot stood still in traffic and it worries me i have wanted to put one on for a bit now but I'm waiting until i do my engine bay

But that's my opinion, Matt

#7 danny_rye

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Posted 22 May 2012 - 08:45 PM

Well to be fair I think it was all the hills on the run that got it so hot. I will probably either go for the 4 core or the standard 3 core with a electric fan I think. Although I must admit the alloy one is tempting.. Ha :P

#8 MGBailey007

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Posted 22 May 2012 - 08:54 PM

haha well i plan on painting all my engine bay and engine getting up upto show and shine standard so that's why i want one, Let me know what you go for, think the 4 core has like 25% better cooling or something they cost about £100 and the standard 3 core about £75

#9 danny_rye

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Posted 23 May 2012 - 04:41 PM

Now me being mr observant has just noticed I have a standard electric fan fitted ( after owning the car for 8months ha :P ) so my next job is to check its running as I may have accidentally done something when restoring the car... So I will probs be going for the 4 core. as long as it fits anyway ha.

#10 tiger99

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 12:52 AM

Maximum temperature generally occurs a few minutes after stopping, just after running hard, because the residual heat in the cylinders continues to find its way into the coolant, which is not being cooled becasue the fan is not running. It likely boils and looses coolant after you have left the car.

If you do add an electric fan (and ideally get rid of the normal fan to minimise power loss), arranging for it to be powered for a few minutes after switching off the ignition would probably solve your problem. If you get a chance to look in the Haynes manual for a Metrs, you will see a "power hold relay" which keeps several systems powered up for a short while after the ignition is off. You could probably transfer all the relevant bits to a Mini.

There will probably be enough water circulation without the pump running to dissiapte the heat, as the water should circulate by gravity, after a fashion, as it did on old cars with no pump.

#11 MGBailey007

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 05:59 AM

on old card they relied on the convection cycle to cool the engines not gravity, sorry i thought i would add that

#12 Dan

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 07:49 AM

Convection is driven by gravity. The same system in domestic plumbing is referred to as a gravity system and in vehicles ofen as a thermo syphon.

#13 MGBailey007

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 08:09 AM

convection is not driven by gravity, it helps with the header tank being the highest point or the fill point( radiator cap) but hot raising and cold sinking is natural

#14 Dan

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 08:15 AM

Err, read what you just wrote. Think about why cold things fall. What causes anything to fall and causes anything to rise? Did you take physics?

#15 MGBailey007

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 08:20 AM

yeh and i also did it on my mechanic course and im sure it still works with no gravity, probably wrong i will google it haha




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