42 replies to this topic

[TA2DMAC]

Turns out my Alternator isn't working. I can have it rebuilt at a reputable shop for about $90.00 which is about 50-60 british pounds.
I'm planning to add spots,fogs, an outlet to charge my phone and possible an mild ICE system later.

My question is, should I; have it re-wrapped to handle more amperage, buy a new one or would the standard Lucas Alternator with internal regulator work?
If other then staying stock, what amperage would fit best for my needs.

Thanks

[bmcecosse]

Standard alternator will be fine. What's wrong with it? Usually just needs a set of brushes costing very little........

[TA2DMAC]

Not sure, it wasn't sending anything to the battery. Your probably right about the brushes and probably a bearing too. It wines at certain rpms.

The shop is going to rebuild it and the best part is they have a 24 hr turnaround time. I can pull it off the car drop it off and pick it up after work the next day.

[tiger99]

Yes, that seems a rfeasonable deal, considering that if you did it yourself you would need to order the parts, and it is very unlikely to just need brushes, more likely a regulator and/or rectifier.

[dklawson]

You said the alternator wasn't sending power to the battery. Though this is sounds stupid, it is a necessary question. Is the warning light working properly? (Off when key out of the ignition, on when key is in the run position with engine off, and off when the engine is running). The lamp MUST be there and work. It is part of the charging circuit, not just an indicator.

That said, you have other options if you must replace the alternator. Over the past few years there have been a lot of different alternator transplants. A recent one gaining popularity is the Bosch alternator transplant from a Saturn. There are always the Delco 10SI and 12SI transplants. Various Denso alternators from Toyotas and Hondas are also common. Most are well documented on the web. If you select one of those options rather than keeping the Lucas, you will be able to stop into your local auto parts store and get a replacement "off the shelf" as opposed to retaining the Lucas unit. Virtually all of the transplants have more amperage than the Lucas unit.

[TA2DMAC]

What warning light? Wherre is it located.... that could be part of the issue.

Any links to those conversions? Might be a better option in the long run.

[tiger99]

That could be your entire problem! There should be several warning lights on your instrument panel, including indicators and main beam, and at least two which come on when you turn on the ignition, but before the engine starts. One is oil pressure, the other "ignition", which is actually "alternator". Oil is usually orange, ignition red, but it is common to find that the bulb holders have been fitted in the wrong holes and they are transposed. The coloured part is usually embedded in the dial, the bulb holders are all identical and push in from the back, accessible from under the bonnet, behind the carburettor, if you have a central single or triple instrument cluster.

I can't tell you where they are on your instrument panel as there have been so many variations, but on a single centre speedo, if I remember correctly, oil was at about 4 and ignition at 8, if you imagine it as a clock face. Main beam was at 12, and was blue. Indicators, either one at 6 or two at 2 and 10, were green.

If you don't get two lights with ignition on, engine not running, please describe which type of instrument panel you have, i.e. one dial or three, in centre or in front of driver, etc, and someone will be able to help.

Meanwhile, if it is a central instrument type, you can easily pull out all the bulb holders and fit new bulbs.

[Spitz]

http://www.7ent.com/...e2211-used.html
http://www.7ent.com/...ut-gxe2276.html
http://www.7ent.com/...ket-lra100.html

[TA2DMAC]

Found the ign light. I'll have to check to see if it comes on. Never really paid much attention to it. What other light should come on?

[TA2DMAC]

Still not sure what the green light at the top is for either.

[dklawson]

Depending on the age of your Mini the green light may or may not be used. If it is used it is often a turn signal indicator. Mk1 cars however had the indicator on the turn signal stalk.

The other warning lights would be one of the two amber lights. These may or may not be used either. Some cars have an oil pressure warning light that is one of the two amber lights... I cannot tell you which. However, your gauge cluster has an oil pressure gauge so the oil pressure switch may not be fitted at all (hence, no amber warning light).

From the engine bay, access the lamp behind the RED speedo jewel (grab the socket and pull it backwards and out). There must be a bulb in that socket for the alternator to work and the bulb must have an intact filament. You are not likely to find that bulb at the local parts store. From Michigan you can try east coast places like Mini City or Moss. For western parts sources you have Mini Mania, Seven, Heritage Garage, and less obvious places like Victoria British, BP Northwest, Spitbits, etc. Also, online you can source the bulb from places like Britishwiring.com. Britishwiring.com is a great resource for all your Lucas wiring needs and their staff are quite helpful. The bulb is a screw in type commonly used with Smiths gauges and Lucas dash wiring on cars like MG's, Triumphs, Minis, etc.

I don't have any great links for you regarding alternator conversions. Since I mentioned a few different possible swaps your best bet is to Google for the conversions using phrases like "MG Midget alternator conversion" or "MG alternator conversion". You can also use phrases like "Lucas alternator swap". You should get many, many hits. Pay particular attention to the links discussing MG Midget conversions as they are virtually identical to the Mini.

[TA2DMAC]

Thanks, I will share check when I get home. Much appreciated. Cheers.

[TA2DMAC]

It wasn't working. I replaced the fitting with a simular tab style fitting. The light came on as I started the car and went dimmer while running.

The orange lights are left and right turn indicators as well as hazards when it's turned on.
The blue is High Beam
Yet I still haven't figured out the green. It is wired up just not sure to what. The green light attaches to a dark green wire with yellow stripe and a black wire. It then leads to a 3way plug with the green/yellow wire , a purple wire with a green stripe and then a purple wire.

[dklawson]

You said the ignition lamp now goes from bright to dim. That is still not good but it is better.

Now that you know the light is working you can make some voltage measurements to see what is going on. Use a voltmeter and check across the battery terminals with the engine not running. If the battery is charged and healthy it will be about 12.5 volts. Start the engine and repeat the test. A charging alternator will put out about 14 volts. if you do not see a voltage increase between 1V to 2V, the alternator is not working.

If the light is flickering dimly once the engine has started you may want to check the brushes. As they approach the wear limit they will develop intermittent contact with the slip rings and the light may flicker. The wear limit should be in the manual and the brushes can be replaced at home if you want to.

[TA2DMAC]

It does flicker a little, they get dimmer as you rev and brighter when you let off. I'm going to pick up a multimeter tomorrow.