27 replies to this topic

[iDemonix]

If I have a passenger, then when turning right, my rear left wheel rubs on the arch. I had to drive home with a passenger AND a passenger in the back, even though the back passenger was sat on the right of the car, it still rubbed like mad when turning right. Took the wheel off to see if the cone had collapsed but it doesn't look as bad as I thought.

I'm not really sure how the rear suspension works, anyone got a diagram? What controls the height, is it the trumpets, cones or the dampers? I thought it was the cones and use of adjustable trumpets, but I see dampers with adjustable dials on them?

How does this look (this is with two mates sat in it to show the problem!)?

[conlad]

Maybe a 'stiffer' set of shocks would do it?

As yours look a bit standard so may be softer as per the original mini shocks which were made for comfort.

Having a stiffer set of SPAX shocks might just do it, but don't hold me to that by any means... If nothing is broke then I cant think of anything else

[iDemonix]

I can't really afford to get new shocks, I'm the kind of person who would rather save up for ages and get really nice adjustable ones when I can afford them, rather than get some 'ok' ones now.

Is it worth doing all of it, or can I just replace the cones/shocks for now to stop rubbing?

[conlad]

SPAX are cheap man! http://www.ebay.co.u...e#ht_500wt_1287

I'll be honest I am not sure mate, someone with more knowledge will have to take over lol

[mini-luke]

Shocks have no affect on the ride height unless they're seized. The cone doesn't look too collapsed, but it is rather rotten. The only other things it could be are knuckle joints or someone cutting the trumpet down to make it shorter.

Cone replacement with new knuckle joints and possibly Hi-Lo's would appear to be best course of action.

[bmcecosse]

It's nothing to do with the dampers (not 'shocks') - the rubber cones do collapse with time, the main factor is the overall length of the ball-end and cone assembly. If you get the cone out (release the damper at the top to allow the trailing arm to drop..) , you can drive the ball-end out, put a 3/16" thick washer over the shaft and then refit it in the cone. This will lift the suspension ~1" which should be sufficient.

[tiger99]

Yes. It is amazing how often (not just on this forum) we see the old nonsense about dampers affecting the ride height! I wish people would stop and think about how suspension actually works before making such suggestions.

Using a washer betwen trumpet and knuckle is a proper fix, if it is just sitting a bit low. I think originally someone got it wrong, original trumpet too short, because very early models had a washer there.

But I am thinking that the problem is possibly worn knuckle joints, best replaced before they wear right through and damage the arm. As they are cheap, and they are going to have to come out anyway, to fit washers, or even hi-los, it would be as well to replace the pair.

I have never inderstood why the rear knuckles seem to wear out quicker than those at the front. The suspension lever ratio is higher, but the total load is probably about the same, to put the cone in its useful working range, yet every Mini I have had needed rear knuckles once or twice, while only one of the three ever needed front knuckles.

[iDemonix]

Sorry for the old nonsense, but as I said, I'm clueless about suspension - so if anyone has any diagrams of the components working together that'd be good.

I know what the radius arm and hub is, I can see that the radius arm attaches to the damper, which attaches to the shell, but not sure how the trumpet, knuckle joint and cone comes in to play? Assuming they somehow attach to the radius arm at the other end?

http://minispares.co...ty=pb&pid=42500

Looking at that, are the black things trumpets? Where do they go in relation to the cone?


Am I right in assuming that if I get hi-lo's, the 'trumpets' are adjustable and they will alter my cars ride height? The 'shocks' aka dampers are adjustable but you're not adjusting ride height - you are adjusting their dampening/rebound? How easy is it to change ride height, does it just involve taking the wheel off and moving some nuts about, or is it a damper off and radius arm hanging down jobby?

http://minispares.co...id=33341&title=

I could do with a kit like that, but just the rears. I will do the fronts at some point, but I'll wait as I'll eventually fit a new engine and subframe, so I'll just wait until I can afford to do that.

I just want to fix my rear suspension on a parts budget of about £100. I'm assuming this kind of job would be too difficult for a novice mechanic and is best left to a professional?

Sorry for all the questions.

[iDemonix]

If the above is wrong, anyone link me to some minispares parts I could buy to do a rear suspension overhaul? I'd like hi-lo's and Gaz adjustable dampers. Do hi-lo's replace the cones, or do hi-lo's still need to use cones?

[mini-luke]

Hi-Lo's replace the trumpets, not the cones. Why do you want to replace the dampers? We've already established that they've got nothing do do with it.

http://www.minispare...=0&tc=1#submenu

That's the best value option

[iDemonix]

Just because the dampers are the originals and are most probably far past their best. Might as well do it all in one!

So, I need:

2x hi-lo
2x hi-lo long bars
2x knuckles
2x knuckle cups
2x rubber doughnuts

and then the adjustable dampers if I want them?

[charie t]

Just because the dampers are the originals and are most probably far past their best. Might as well do it all in one!

So, I need:

2x hi-lo
2x hi-lo long bars
2x knuckles
2x knuckle cups
2x rubber doughnuts

and then the adjustable dampers if I want them?

knuckles come with the cups
hilo kit comes with the front and rear replacements

[Deathrow]

Can we establish where it's rubbing before you spend any money.

Is it rubbing on your arch extension or on the metal arch of the body of the car. It's hard to tell how far away your wheel is from the body of the actual car because of the arch extensions.

EDIT: Having looked again, it looks like your arch extensions have been fitted a bit stretched out so they don't have the height they should. Can you take a picture with the wheel on, someone in the passenger seat and from a lower angle so we can see the wheel, the edge of the arch extension and the wheel arch of the body of the car.

[iDemonix]

Can we establish where it's rubbing before you spend any money.

Is it rubbing on your arch extension or on the metal arch of the body of the car. It's hard to tell how far away your wheel is from the body of the actual car because of the arch extensions.

EDIT: Having looked again, it looks like your arch extensions have been fitted a bit stretched out so they don't have the height they should. Can you take a picture with the wheel on, someone in the passenger seat and from a lower angle so we can see the wheel, the edge of the arch extension and the wheel arch of the body of the car.

I think it's rubbing on the inside of the outer arch. I'll try get a picture soon, but the rear is generally sitting too low anyway, a lot lower than the fronts. It's got a reverse stance, I want the rears riding slightly higher than the fronts.

http://minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=37151

They're the hi-lo's but as far as I can see they don't come with the threaded bar that connects the hi-lo itself to the knuckle?

http://minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=35823&title=

But you can't buy them as it says they're superseded but offers no alternatives?

Thanks for all the help.

[Deathrow]

If it's rubbing on the inside of the arch extensions then you need to refit them. The lip of the arch extension should line up with the lip of the body arch. That's why you're getting rubbing.

Best to contact Simon about the hi-lo bars. But just a note, they're not threaded .