19 replies to this topic

[Spitz]

Time to replace rear wheel bearings on the PUP.
I've changed rears a few years ago on another car with stock ball bearings, but this time I'm using roller bearings.
I had thought there was a spacer.....are these built in spacers and therefore no need to use the separate spacer?

[joakwin]

My new billet hubs from http://www.specialis...mponents.co.uk/ came with bearing like that, with the built in spacers

[Spitz]

So....the old spacer is not needed....and I am not missing anything in this kit?

[tiger99]

Your kit appears to be correct, and those bearings certainly have built-in spacers. As a second check, once you have fitted the bearings to the hub, tighten the nut gently, and see that free play in the bearings is just about gone, but they still spin freely, with it just nipped up. Torque it up slowly, while rotating the hub. It should still rotate fairly freely when you reach the correct torque.

[Spitz]

I don't recall the torque figure..... ~60lb ?

[tiger99]

Just a minute, I will look it up.

[tiger99]

Yes, 60 lb ft and then to the split pin hole, from the Rover manual.

[Spitz]

Thanks...all done.

Couldn't go 60 without things being awfully tight.
Will run for a few miles and see if things "bed" in and check torque.

by the way....when I pulled the nuts off....one was only about 20lb's...the other was finger tight! )

[tiger99]

I guess your old bearings had been moving around slightly and had worn the mating faces, where the spacer, if used, is, and/or the washer, which is why the nuts had lost their torque. I have not needed all that many rear hub bearings, but recall that the few I changed were fairly loose too.

The bearings will loosen off, the tightness is likely because they have no seated to the last thou or so in the hub. The rolling action in normal use tends to flex the outer race, which helps them to seat properly. A correctly fitted bearing tends to creep around very slowly in its housing due to the rolling action, maybe about one full rev in a few thousand miles. It is only if they are loose,and spin, that serious wear occurs. Normal creep is harmless.

[mike.]

When I inspected/regreased mine the other week, I couldn't get near the torque figure without the hub being locked solid.

Ended up doing them enough to take the play from the bearing, then another 1/4 turn to the next split pin hole. That was enough to let the bearing turn smoothly with a slight resistance - Which happened way before 60ft/lbs.

I know a couple of other people do them like that too.

[Spitz]

Noticed the greas cap was fairly warm after a relatively short run.
Hopefully normal.

...or was I supposed to use that grease which was included in there?

( just kidding )

[tiger99]

Now I am slightly worried, as we have at least two people with bearings which may be too tight. It can only be machining tolerances, either in the hub or the bearings. I would not expect them to be running hot. Maybe they need a thin shim?

[jaydee]

Now I am slightly worried, as we have at least two people with bearings which may be too tight. It can only be machining tolerances, either in the hub or the bearings. I would not expect them to be running hot. Maybe they need a thin shim?

I'm gonna fit a pair new as i'll receive correct parts, will see if i have the problem and whether they need a shim or not.

[bmcecosse]

The wheel with tyre must be able to spin freely.......If it doesn't - then something sadly wrong. Are these proper Timken bearings - or some cheap/nasty import???

[Spitz]

Maybe nasty(?) ( will have a look at the box )....from Minisport last year.